Open Hardware Miniconf - User contributions [en]

OHC2017

2017-02-25T23:52:11Z

Angus Gratton:

'''Quick information links used at OHMC2017:'''
* Event videos: [https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGLTGMZ1-E9ZIN3nIMtoHaRS7jz9i9416 Youtube] / [http://mirror.linux.org.au/pub/linux.conf.au/2017/ Video Files]
* Assembly: http://tinyurl.com/iotuz-assembly
* Software: http://tinyurl.com/iotuz-software
* Hardware: http://tinyurl.com/iotuz-hw
* Firmware: http://tinyurl.com/iotuz-fw
** These links point to resources listed below, so if they break, don't fret.

The Open Hardware Miniconf 2017 took place as part of [https://linux.conf.au/ LCA 2017] in Hobart, Tasmania, Australia.

The concept of Free / Open Source Software, already well understood by LCA attendees, is complemented by a rapidly growing community focused around Open Hardware and "maker culture". One of the drivers of the popularity of the Open Hardware community is easy access to cheap devices such as Arduino, which is a microcontroller development board originally intended for classroom use but now a popular building block in all sorts of weird and wonderful hobbyist and professional projects.

Interest in Open Hardware is high among FOSS enthusiasts but there is also a barrier to entry with the perceived difficulty and dangers of dealing with hot soldering irons, unknown components and unfamiliar naming schemes. The miniconf will use an Open Hardware assembly project as a stepping stone to help ease software developers into dealing with Open Hardware. Topics will cover both software and hardware issues, starting with simpler sessions suitable for Open Hardware beginners and progressing through to more advanced topics.

The day ran in two distinct halves. The first part of the day was a hands-on assembly session where participants will have the chance to assemble a special hardware project developed for the miniconf. Instructors will be on hand to assist with soldering and the other mysteries of hardware assembly. The second part of the day was a presentations about Open Hardware topics, including information on software to run on the hardware project built earlier in the day. Due to the nature of the hardware project, we will be spending more time on presentations about the IoTuz hardware, software and getting the most out of it.

== Venue ==

The venue for OHMC2017 was '''[http://www.wrestpoint.com.au/conference/wellington-room-,facilities_viewItem_41-en.html Welliington room #2]''' at Wrestpoint.

== Schedule ==

Date: Tuesday 17th January 2017

Project assembly in the morning followed by talks in the afternoon:

* 10:40 - 10:50 '''Welcome & Introduction'''
* 10:50 - 12:20 '''IoTuz Assembly Workshop''' (registration required to participate, spectators also welcome)
* 12:20 - 1:20 Lunch
* 1:20 - 1:50 '''Angus Gratton''': ESP32 microcontroller hardware and software
* 1:55 - 2:25 '''Bob Powers''': IoTuz hardware design, manufacturing, working with KiCad
* 2:30 - 300 '''Mark Wolfe''': IoTuz software design challenges and ESP-IDF (Iot Development Framework)
* 3:00 - 3:40 Afternoon Tea
* 3:40 - 4:20 '''Nick Moore''': microPython for ESP32
* 4:20 - 4:40 '''Andy Gelme''': ESP32 development example using IoTuz
* 4:40 - 5:10 '''Lightning Talks''' (5 minutes)
** '''Tim Ansell''': I'm Tomu - A hobbyist device which fits inside your USB port
** '''Kristine Howard''': Granny was a hacker
** '''Marc Merlin''': How to row scan an 8x8 LED matrix
** '''Jill Rowling''': Alpaca fibre quality control
** '''Julien Goodwin''': USB-C features and a USB-PD project
** Spare slot
* 5:10 - 5:20 '''Wrap Up '''

=== Lightning Talks ===

'''Call for lightning talks now closed.'''

== Call For Papers ==

'''Call For Papers is now closed.'''

== Accepted Papers ==

'''See schedule above'''

== Discussion Group ==

There is a Google Group email list for discussion of topics related to the miniconf, including the assembly session:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/open-hardware-conf

== Assembly Project ==

Each year we help attendees build a project specially developed for the Open Hardware Miniconf.

The project for 2017 was '''IoTuz -The Internet of Tux'''

The board is based around the '''ESP32''', which is the big brother successor to the '''ESP8266''' used in the ESPlant project in 2016. [http://hackaday.com/2016/09/15/esp32-hands-on-awesome-promise Hack-A-Day article describing the ESP32].

Actual cost of the kit, just for LCA2017, is '''AU$100'''.

Through hole parts on the board will be assembled on the day, with all the SMD parts being pre-loaded on the board. [https://github.com/CCHS-Melbourne/iotuz-esp32-hardware/tree/master/Documentation Assembly instructions]

Repository for the project is on Github:
*Hardware: https://github.com/CCHS-Melbourne/iotuz-esp32-hardware
*Firmware: https://github.com/CCHS-Melbourne/iotuz-esp32-firmware

The hardware kit includes ...
* ESP-WROOM-32 module
* 320 x 240 colour touchscreen
* Joystick, rotary encoder (knob), buttons
* 2x APA106 RGB LEDs (10 mm)
* 3 axis accelerometer
* Barometric pressure sensor
* InfraRed transmitter / receiver
* Audio circuit and speaker
* LiPo battery and charge circuit
* Easy access to IO pins .. alligator clip friendly

===Project (im)maturity===

Regardless of your current level of experience and skill ... you will have an excellent day and walk away with working hardware and software. If you want to get in at the ground floor of the ESP32 developer community, then this is a great place to start. There will be some uncharted territory, some trail blazing and plenty of learning from our mistakes :)

The hardware was initially tested by a short run of 4 prototype PCBs. Problems found were corrected for the production run. All the basics should work ... however, there is a chance that some modest hacking might be required, e.g cutting a track and adding wires.

The ESP32 is very new and modules have only been available in very small quantities to select groups of people for a couple of months. EspressIf have been working (transparently via GitHub) on the RTOS, networking stack and peripheral drivers ... and the basics work, but there is much more work to do.

===Software===

We've bundled together all the details for developing software on Github at:
* [https://github.com/CCHS-Melbourne/iotuz-esp32-hardware/wiki/Software-Instructions IoTuz Dev Software Instructions]

Note: These instructions were changed just before the [[OHC2017|Open Hardware Miniconf 2017]], so you will need to update any previous install you have made.

[[File:IoTuz.png|Image 1]]

Image 1. Rendered version of the board.

[[File:IoTuz-display-working.jpg|Image 2]]

Image 2. Working prototype (missing battery holder).

Main Page

2017-02-25T23:51:20Z

Angus Gratton:

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Open Hardware Miniconf}}

'''The 2017 Open Hardware Miniconf has now concluded.'''

[https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGLTGMZ1-E9ZIN3nIMtoHaRS7jz9i9416 Videos from the event are available on Youtube] and [http://mirror.linux.org.au/pub/linux.conf.au/2017/ as video files in the archive].

Details for the [[OHC2017|Open Hardware Miniconf 2017]] and the hardware kit are at '''[[OHC2017]]'''. This includes details of software toolchains, github repos, assembly instructions, etc, that were used on the day. If you missed out on the day, have broken or need to reinstall your development environment, or are just interested in what this was all about, the info will still be here.

The [[OHC2017|Open Hardware Miniconf]] is a 1-day event that runs as a specialist stream within the [http://linux.conf.au/ linux.conf.au] conference. It gives participants an opportunity to learn basic hardware skills such as soldering, by assembling their own electronic project, and then the afternoon is filled with interesting talks about various projects and techniques related to the morning project and to open hardware in general.

The [[OHC2017|Open Hardware Miniconf]] began as the Arduino Miniconf in Wellington NZ in 2010 and has run every year since. Although Arduino is still a powerful and popular tool for learning about microcontroller development, the event has now grown in scope to cover broader Open Hardware topics including non-Arduino projects. In 2015, it took on its new identity as the [[OHC2017|Open Hardware Miniconf]] to reflect this broader interest.

To give you some idea what to expect, this is the hardware assembly session at the LCA2016 Open Hardware Mini-Conference:

[[File:OHMC2016a.jpg]]

(Photo by [https://www.flickr.com/photos/geekscape Andy Gelme], [http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/deed.en CC2.0])

After the assembly session is over the room is cleaned up a bit and the talks begin. It's a fun and educational event!

Note: To attend you must first register for the main conference, which provides the venue. The [[OHC2017|Open Hardware Miniconf]] is part of LCA as a specialist stream for conference attendees: it's not a stand-alone event. See [http://linux.conf.au/ linux.conf.au] for more information.

== Registration And Cost ==
As there is usually a hardware build as part of hte Oen Hardware Miniconf, there is usually a registration that needs to be completed, and a cost for the kit. Details will be posted here once the next one is organised.

As the OHMC is a linux.conf.au miniconference, attendance is free for linux.conf.au delegates, but if you wish to participate in the morning hardware assembly tutorial you will need to pre-register and purchase a kit. Space is limited so get in fast!

If you just want to come along and watch or attend the talks, you don't need to do anything. If you wish to participate in the hardware assembly tutorial, please submit the registration form.

See [[OHC2017|Open Hardware Miniconf 2017]] for more information.

[[File:OHMC2016b.jpg|320px]]

(Photo by [https://www.flickr.com/photos/geekscape Andy Gelme], [http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/deed.en CC2.0])

== Previous Events ==

For historical reference:

* [[OHC2017|Open Hardware Miniconf 2017 (Hobart, Australia)]]
* [[OHC2016|Open Hardware Miniconf 2016 (Geelong, Australia)]]
* [[OHC2015|Open Hardware Miniconf 2015 (Auckland, New Zealand)]]
* [[AMC2014|Arduino Miniconf 2014 (Perth, Australia)]]
* [[AMC2013|Arduino Miniconf 2013 (Canberra, Australia)]]
* [[AMC2012|Arduino Miniconf 2012 (Ballarat, Australia)]]
* [[AMC2011|Arduino Miniconf 2011 (Brisbane, Australia)]]
* [[AMC2010|Arduino Miniconf 2010 (Wellington, New Zealand)]]

OHC2017

2017-01-04T20:21:28Z

Angus Gratton: /* Schedule */

'''[https://goo.gl/forms/tGUfEifPP1OZ37082 Registrations now WAIT-LISTED for the Open Hardware Miniconf 2017]'''

'''To improve diversity and better representation, we have allocated 3 additional OHMC places for women attending LCA2017 (none left).'''

The Open Hardware Miniconf 2017 will take place as part of [https://linux.conf.au/ LCA 2017] in Hobart, Tasmania, Australia.

The concept of Free / Open Source Software, already well understood by LCA attendees, is complemented by a rapidly growing community focused around Open Hardware and "maker culture". One of the drivers of the popularity of the Open Hardware community is easy access to cheap devices such as Arduino, which is a microcontroller development board originally intended for classroom use but now a popular building block in all sorts of weird and wonderful hobbyist and professional projects.

Interest in Open Hardware is high among FOSS enthusiasts but there is also a barrier to entry with the perceived difficulty and dangers of dealing with hot soldering irons, unknown components and unfamiliar naming schemes. The miniconf will use an Open Hardware assembly project as a stepping stone to help ease software developers into dealing with Open Hardware. Topics will cover both software and hardware issues, starting with simpler sessions suitable for Open Hardware beginners and progressing through to more advanced topics.

The day will run in two distinct halves. The first part of the day will be a hands-on assembly session where participants will have the chance to assemble a special hardware project developed for the miniconf. Instructors will be on hand to assist with soldering and the other mysteries of hardware assembly. The second part of the day will be presentations about Open Hardware topics, including information on software to run on the hardware project built earlier in the day. Due to the nature of the hardware project, we will be spending more time on presentations about the IoTuz hardware, software and getting the most out of it.

== Venue ==

We are pleased to announce that we'll be running OHMC2017 in the [http://www.wrestpoint.com.au/conference/wellington-room-,facilities_viewItem_41-en.html Welliington room] at Wrestpoint.

== Schedule ==

Date: Tuesday 17th January 2017

Project assembly in the morning followed by talks in the afternoon:

* 10:40 - 10:50 '''Welcome & Introduction'''
* 10:50 - 12:20 '''IoTuz Assembly Workshop''' (registration required to participate, spectators also welcome)
* 12:20 - 1:20 Lunch
* 1:20 - 3:00 '''IoTuz Talks'''
** ESP32 microcontroller - hardware, software, possibilities (Angus Gratton)
** IoTuz hardware - design, manufacturing, working with KiCad (Bob Powers)
** IoTuz software architecture, using esp-idf with Arduino (Mark Wolfe)
* 3:00 - 3:40 Afternoon Tea
* 3:40 - 5:20 '''Talks and finishing off with lightning talks'''
** Micropython (Nick Moore)
** IoTuz with MQTT, LCD screen, touchscreen (Andy Gelme)
** Hackerspace Highlights
** Lightning Talks
** Wrap Up

=== Lightning Talks ===

* If you'd like to present a 5 minute lightning talk, please email [mailto:andyg@geekscape.org andyg@geekscape.org]

== Call For Papers ==

'''Call For Papers is now open.'''

Please see [[OHC2017-CFP]] for more information

'''Call For Papers closes at midnight 31st December 2016'''

== Accepted Papers ==

'''To be announced.'''

== Discussion Group ==

There is a Google Group email list for discussion of topics related to the miniconf, including the assembly session:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/open-hardware-conf

== Assembly Project ==

Each year we help attendees build a project specially developed for the Open Hardware Miniconf.

The project this year is called '''IoTuz -The Internet of Tux'''

The board is based around the '''ESP32''', which is the big brother successor to the '''ESP8266''' used in the ESPlant project in 2016. [http://hackaday.com/2016/09/15/esp32-hands-on-awesome-promise Hack-A-Day article describing the ESP32].

Estimated cost of the kit is '''AU$120'''.

Through hole parts on the board will be assembled on the day, with all the SMD parts being pre-loaded on the board.

Repository for the project is on Github: https://github.com/CCHS-Melbourne/IoTuz

The hardware kit includes ...
* ESP-WROOM-32 module
* 320 x 240 colour touchscreen
* Joystick, rotary encoder (knob), buttons
* 2x APA106 RGB LEDs (10 mm)
* 3 axis accelerometer
* Barometric pressure sensor
* InfraRed transmitter / receiver
* Audio circuit and speaker
* LiPo battery and charge circuit
* Easy access to IO pins .. alligator clip friendly

'''Project (im)maturity'''

Regardless of your current level of experience and skill ... you will have an excellent day and walk away with working hardware and software. If you want to get in at the ground floor of the ESP32 developer community, then this is a great place to start. There will be some uncharted territory, some trail blazing and plenty of learning from our mistakes :)

The hardware was initially tested by a short run of 4 prototype PCBs. Problems found were corrected for the production run. All the basics should work ... however, there is a chance that some modest hacking might be required, e.g cutting a track and adding wires.

The ESP32 is very new and modules have only been available in very small quantities to select groups of people for a couple of months. EspressIf have been working (transparently via GitHub) on the RTOS, networking stack and peripheral drivers ... and the basics work, but there is much more work to do.

* [https://github.com/espressif/esp-idf Development Environment (GitHub)]
* [http://esp-idf.readthedocs.io/en/latest/index.html Documentation]

[[File:IoTuz.png|Image 1]]

Image 1. Rendered version of the board.

[[File:IoTuz-display-working.jpg|Image 2]]

Image 2. Working prototype (missing battery holder).

SimpleBot-Resources

2015-01-13T22:33:08Z

Angus Gratton: /* SimpleBot support */

{{DISPLAYTITLE:SimpleBot Resources}}

==SimpleBot on the LCA WiFi==

Instructions are here:
https://gist.github.com/projectgus/5d18fdd40d601eb24a5a

==SimpleBot support==

Github issues log at https://github.com/nodebotsau/simplebot/issues

==SimpleBot Design Files==

Design files and docs at https://github.com/nodebotsau/simplebot

==Wanting more NodeBots?==

See the NodeBots AU twitter account (general NodeBots related info, events info, cool projects etc). @nodebotsau

NodeBots chatroom - https://gitter.im/rwaldron/johnny-five

==Events / Ongoing Stuff==

===Melbourne===
* CCHS Mailing list: http://www.hackmelbourne.org/cchs-lists/
* NodeBots Night (first Wednesday of each month at CCHS)

===Brisbane===
* http://hsbne.org/ (They are also doing a NodeBots night relatively frequently - trying for first weds of the month as well)

[[SimpleBot|Back to SimpleBot]]

SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration

2015-01-13T00:33:43Z

Angus Gratton:

The SimpleBot software is installed on the Raspberry Pi. If you are attending the workshop you will be provided with a pre-installed SD card to use. This page will help you with any additional configuration that is required and allow you to create your own SD image if you need to later.

== Changing the default configuration ==

The SD card supplied in the kit has Raspbian pre-installed with a default configuration. Before booting your SimpleBot for the first time, you should customise the configuration by editing a configuration file on the card using your computer:

1. Insert the Micro SD card into a laptop or workstation using the provided adaptor
2. When the image is mounted open the file `machine.local` in a text editor
3. Edit the file as explained by the comments in the file.
4. Save the file and unmount the SD card and then remove it.
5. Insert the card into the Raspberry Pi and power up.

The Raspberry Pi will then:

1. Boot from the SD card.
2. Read the contents of the `machine.local` file.
3. Check for a variable that sets `wifichanged=1` (if the variable is not set, it will continue booting as normal)
4. Apply the configuration settings it finds in `machine.local`.
5. Rewrite `machine.local` to un-set the wifichanged flag.
6. Reboot, which will proceed as normal with the updated settings.

This process allows you to modify the network settings of your SimpleBot at any time simply by repeating the process above, avoiding the need for a screen, serial console, or working network connection to change the configuration.

The SimpleBot has Avahi enabled, so you can then SSH to your SimpleBot from any machine that has mDNS/DNS-SD support such as GNU/Linux with Avahi installed or MacOS with Bonjour. For example, if you set the hostname to `jons-simplebot` you could then SSH to `jons-simplebot.local`.

By default the Miniconf image will use a hostname based on the unique serial number of the ARM CPU, to ensure that it comes up on the network with a unique hostname. Change the hostname to a static value that you know.

Login is the default Raspbian values: "pi" and "raspberry". Once logged in the first time you can change them to suit yourself.

[[SimpleBot-Assembly|Back to SimpleBot Assembly Overview]]

----

==Addendum: Creating your own SD image ==

'''This step is not necessary if you are using the SD card provided in the kit. These instructions are provided for reference only, to explain how the supplied SD card was created.'''

If you want to set up your own Raspbian environment to suit the SimpleBot, you can recreate the steps used to make the provided SimpleBot image as follows:

1. Install a Raspberry Pi Raspbian Image on your SD by following [http://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/README.md these] instructions.
2. Boot your Raspberry Pi and login as user `pi` with password `raspberry`
3. Make sure your keyboard is correctly configured and you have internet access
4. Run the following command
script initialsetup -c "bash <(wget -O - https://tinyurl.com/RasPiIoT-1)"
This will create a log in the file initialsetup. At the end of the process the Pi will reboot
5. Login again
6. Run the following command
script packagesetup -c "bash <(wget -O - https://tinyurl.com/RasPiIoT-2)"
This will create a log in the file packagesetup. At the end of the process the Pi will reboot.
NB When asked you should 'N' to ROS install unless you know that you really need it.

There are more details at https://github.com/alecthegeek/CCHS_Raspian_for_IoT

'''Compiling the driver for the RT7601 WiFi chipset'''

The specific drivers you require will depend on the WiFi dongle that you use. The dongles provided in the kit use the RT7601 chipset, which is not supported by default under Raspbian. Follow these steps to compile the driver. These steps have already been done on the image provided in the kit.

### Prepare kernel source
sudo su
cd /usr/src
git clone --depth 1 https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux.git #downloads about 132MB
ln -s /usr/src/linux /lib/modules/`uname -r`/build
cd /lib/modules/`uname -r`/build
make mrproper
gzip -dc /proc/config.gz > .config
make modules_prepare
wget https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/raw/master/extra/Module.symvers
exit
### Fetch driver source
cd ~
mkdir wireless-drivers
cd wireless-drivers
wget https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11876059/DPO_MT7601U_LinuxSTA_3.0.0.4_20130913.tar.gz
tar zxf DPO_MT7601U_LinuxSTA_3.0.0.4_20130913.tar.gz
cd DPO_MT7601U_LinuxSTA_3.0.0.4_20130913
### Make and install driver
make
sudo make install

To configure it as a wireless client, edit /etc/network/interfaces and add this to the end:

auto ra0
allow-hotplug ra0
iface ra0 inet dhcp
wpa-ssid "YOUR SSID"
wpa-psk "YOUR PASSWORD"

Finally, reboot and it'll come up with the wireless interface enabled:

sudo reboot

= Next steps =

Once you're up and running you can try the [[SimpleBot NodeBots Examples]].

= Other Raspberry Pi networking resources =

http://elinux.org/RPi_USB_Wi-Fi_Adapters

http://www.maketecheasier.com/set-up-raspberry-pi-as-wireless-access-point/

http://va3paw.com/2014/03/16/hsmm-mesh-on-raspberry-pi/

OHC2015

2015-01-12T23:28:12Z

Angus Gratton: /* Schedule */

The Open Hardware Miniconf 2015 will take place as part of LCA 2015 in Auckland, New Zealand.

The concept of Free / Open Source Software, already well understood by LCA attendees, is complemented by a rapidly growing community focused around Open Hardware and "maker culture". One of the drivers of the popularity of the Open Hardware community is easy access to cheap devices such as Arduino, which is a microcontroller development board originally intended for classroom use but now a popular building block in all sorts of weird and wonderful hobbyist and professional projects.

Interest in Open Hardware is high among FOSS enthusiasts but there is also a barrier to entry with the perceived difficulty and dangers of dealing with hot soldering irons, unknown components and unfamiliar naming schemes. The miniconf will use an Open Hardware assembly project as a stepping stone to help ease software developers into dealing with Open Hardware. Topics will cover both software and hardware issues, starting with simpler sessions suitable for Open Hardware beginners and progressing through to more advanced topics.

The day will run in two distinct halves. The first part of the day will be a hands-on assembly session where participants will have the chance to solder together a special hardware project developed for the miniconf. Instructors will be on hand to assist with soldering and the other mysteries of hardware assembly. The second part of the day will be presentations about Open Hardware topics, including information on software to run on the hardware project built earlier in the day.

== Venue ==

School of Architecture and Planning building, a short walk from the main conference venue. [https://www.google.com/maps/place/36%C2%B051%2714.6%22S+174%C2%B046%2710.6%22E/@-36.8540799,174.7695734,19z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en Google Maps Link]

Morning assembly session is downstairs in the Faculty Workshop on level 1.

Afternoon talks are in studio room 311, on level 3.

== Schedule ==

* 10:40 - '''12:20 SimpleBot assembly workshop''' (registration required to participate, spectators also welcome)
* 12:20 - 1:20 Lunch
* 1:20 - 2:10 Bonus assembly workshop session
* 2:10 - 2:20 Break
* 2:20 - 2:40 '''Talk 1: NodeBot / SimpleBot Pi software basics - Jonathan Oxer'''
* 2:40 - 3:00 '''Talk 2: Using KiCAD to design the SimpleBot Shield - Angus Gratton'''
* 3:00 - 3:40 Afternoon Tea
* 3:40 - 4:00 '''Talk 3: Practical electronics for software developers - Jonathan Oxer'''
* 4:00 - 4:20 '''Talk 4: LEDs: Care & Feeding - Digby Turner'''
* 4:20 - 4:30 Break
* 4:30 - 4:50 '''Talk 5: Hardening Embedded Linux on Internet of Things platforms - Andrew McDonnell'''
* 4:50 - 5:10 '''Talk 6: Espruino: JS go under limbo stick - Maksim Lin'''
* 5:10 - 5:40 '''Lightning talks, project showcase, general discussion'''

'''Lightning Talks''' (not in any particular order)

* Bare Bones MCU programming - Maksim Lin
* Why you should use KiCAD for open hardware - Tim Ansell
* Novena open source laptop project (& why it's exciting) - Angus Gratton
* ...you? If you'd like to present a 5 minute lightning talk, please email [mailto:jon@oxer.com.au jon@oxer.com.au]

== Call For Papers ==

Please see [[OHC2015-CFP]] for more information

== Discussion Group ==

There is a Google Group email list for discussion of topics related to the miniconf, including the SimpleBot assembly session:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/open-hardware-conf

== Assembly Project ==

'''ALL PLACES FILLED: All places at the assembly session have now been filled. You can still submit the registration form to go on the waiting list in case there are cancellations, but you won't be guaranteed a spot. Sorry.'''

Each year we build a project developed for the Miniconf, and this year we'll be assembling SimpleBot robots designed by Andrew Fisher and Angus Gratton. Participating in the assembly session costs AU$120, and provides you with everything required to build a complete SimpleBot including a Raspberry Pi, a PiLeven, a SimpleBot Shield, servos, and all other parts.

More details at: [[SimpleBot|OHC2015 Assembly Project: SimpleBot]]

[https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1FrQVsCqmFpgjmMW6Iy6CBjxXR4AjOglRZJpK-uczjIM/viewform?usp=send_form Assembly session registration form] '''NOTE: ALL PLACES FILLED'''

File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.jpg

2015-01-12T23:06:38Z

Angus Gratton:

File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.jpg

2015-01-12T23:06:26Z

Angus Gratton:

File:SimpleBot AREF Fix.jpg

2015-01-12T23:06:13Z

Angus Gratton:

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2015-01-12T23:05:45Z

Angus Gratton: /* Wire AREF to 5V */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components to be soldered on. The parts you need are:

[[File:SimpleBot-shield-parts.jpg|800px]]

* SimpleBot Shield with WS2812B RGB LEDs and capacitors pre-fitted.
* 5x Screw terminal header blocks (mounted as one 4-way terminal and one 6-way terminal).
* Pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4-pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor.
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR (light dependent resistor) and fixed resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig" to keep the headers straight while they are being soldered. Start by mounting the PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

The male pin headers are supplied cut to the correct length to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

Place them into the PiLeven headers as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Slip the SimpleBot Shield onto the headers so it sits in place on the PiLeven:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven. The headers should all be straight.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield back to back, with the terminal openings facing out:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tac or your finger to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins from the bottom:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Voltage Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly, and can be damaged if you fit them backwards. Place the regulator as shown, with the large metal tab facing towards the screw terminals.

Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them stay in while you solder them, or use Blu-Tac.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off. Make sure you hold the lead while you cut it, so that it doesn't shoot off like a tiny metal javelin straight into your eye:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (light dependent resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not normal motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from longer male header strips if they haven't been pre-cut.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

It's recommended you leave LDR sitting high above the PCB surface, as shown, so you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor.

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-Tac or your finger to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design: the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.

[[File:SimpleBot AREF Fix.jpg|400px]]

Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.jpg|400px]]

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The 10k resistor forms a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

Bend the leads of the resistor so that it slips neatly into the holes on the PCB:

[[File:SimpleBot-resistor-bent.jpg|240px]]

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the that the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors aren't installed backwards:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

[[SimpleBot-Assembly|Back to SimpleBot Assembly Overview]]

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2015-01-12T23:04:11Z

Angus Gratton: /* Wire AREF to 5V */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components to be soldered on. The parts you need are:

[[File:SimpleBot-shield-parts.jpg|800px]]

* SimpleBot Shield with WS2812B RGB LEDs and capacitors pre-fitted.
* 5x Screw terminal header blocks (mounted as one 4-way terminal and one 6-way terminal).
* Pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4-pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor.
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR (light dependent resistor) and fixed resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig" to keep the headers straight while they are being soldered. Start by mounting the PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

The male pin headers are supplied cut to the correct length to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

Place them into the PiLeven headers as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Slip the SimpleBot Shield onto the headers so it sits in place on the PiLeven:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven. The headers should all be straight.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield back to back, with the terminal openings facing out:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tac or your finger to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins from the bottom:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Voltage Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly, and can be damaged if you fit them backwards. Place the regulator as shown, with the large metal tab facing towards the screw terminals.

Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them stay in while you solder them, or use Blu-Tac.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off. Make sure you hold the lead while you cut it, so that it doesn't shoot off like a tiny metal javelin straight into your eye:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (light dependent resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not normal motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from longer male header strips if they haven't been pre-cut.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

It's recommended you leave LDR sitting high above the PCB surface, as shown, so you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor.

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-Tac or your finger to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design: the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.

[[File:SimpleBot AREF Fix.png|400px]]

Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.png|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.png|400px]]

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The 10k resistor forms a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

Bend the leads of the resistor so that it slips neatly into the holes on the PCB:

[[File:SimpleBot-resistor-bent.jpg|240px]]

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the that the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors aren't installed backwards:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

[[SimpleBot-Assembly|Back to SimpleBot Assembly Overview]]

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2015-01-12T23:03:34Z

Angus Gratton: /* Wire AREF to 5V */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components to be soldered on. The parts you need are:

[[File:SimpleBot-shield-parts.jpg|800px]]

* SimpleBot Shield with WS2812B RGB LEDs and capacitors pre-fitted.
* 5x Screw terminal header blocks (mounted as one 4-way terminal and one 6-way terminal).
* Pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4-pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor.
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR (light dependent resistor) and fixed resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig" to keep the headers straight while they are being soldered. Start by mounting the PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

The male pin headers are supplied cut to the correct length to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

Place them into the PiLeven headers as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Slip the SimpleBot Shield onto the headers so it sits in place on the PiLeven:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven. The headers should all be straight.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield back to back, with the terminal openings facing out:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tac or your finger to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins from the bottom:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Voltage Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly, and can be damaged if you fit them backwards. Place the regulator as shown, with the large metal tab facing towards the screw terminals.

Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them stay in while you solder them, or use Blu-Tac.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off. Make sure you hold the lead while you cut it, so that it doesn't shoot off like a tiny metal javelin straight into your eye:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (light dependent resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not normal motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from longer male header strips if they haven't been pre-cut.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

It's recommended you leave LDR sitting high above the PCB surface, as shown, so you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor.

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-Tac or your finger to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design: the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.

[File:SimpleBot AREF Fix.png|400px]

Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:

[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.png|400px]

[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.png|400px]

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The 10k resistor forms a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

Bend the leads of the resistor so that it slips neatly into the holes on the PCB:

[[File:SimpleBot-resistor-bent.jpg|240px]]

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the that the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors aren't installed backwards:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

[[SimpleBot-Assembly|Back to SimpleBot Assembly Overview]]

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2015-01-12T23:02:41Z

Angus Gratton: /* Wire AREF to 5V */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components to be soldered on. The parts you need are:

[[File:SimpleBot-shield-parts.jpg|800px]]

* SimpleBot Shield with WS2812B RGB LEDs and capacitors pre-fitted.
* 5x Screw terminal header blocks (mounted as one 4-way terminal and one 6-way terminal).
* Pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4-pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor.
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR (light dependent resistor) and fixed resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig" to keep the headers straight while they are being soldered. Start by mounting the PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

The male pin headers are supplied cut to the correct length to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

Place them into the PiLeven headers as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Slip the SimpleBot Shield onto the headers so it sits in place on the PiLeven:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven. The headers should all be straight.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield back to back, with the terminal openings facing out:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tac or your finger to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins from the bottom:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Voltage Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly, and can be damaged if you fit them backwards. Place the regulator as shown, with the large metal tab facing towards the screw terminals.

Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them stay in while you solder them, or use Blu-Tac.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off. Make sure you hold the lead while you cut it, so that it doesn't shoot off like a tiny metal javelin straight into your eye:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (light dependent resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not normal motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from longer male header strips if they haven't been pre-cut.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

It's recommended you leave LDR sitting high above the PCB surface, as shown, so you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor.

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-Tac or your finger to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design: the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.

[File: SimpleBot AREF Fix.png]

Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:

[File: SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.png]

[File: SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.png]

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The 10k resistor forms a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

Bend the leads of the resistor so that it slips neatly into the holes on the PCB:

[[File:SimpleBot-resistor-bent.jpg|240px]]

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the that the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors aren't installed backwards:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

[[SimpleBot-Assembly|Back to SimpleBot Assembly Overview]]

OHC2015

2015-01-12T21:13:34Z

Angus Gratton: /* Schedule */

The Open Hardware Miniconf 2015 will take place as part of LCA 2015 in Auckland, New Zealand.

The concept of Free / Open Source Software, already well understood by LCA attendees, is complemented by a rapidly growing community focused around Open Hardware and "maker culture". One of the drivers of the popularity of the Open Hardware community is easy access to cheap devices such as Arduino, which is a microcontroller development board originally intended for classroom use but now a popular building block in all sorts of weird and wonderful hobbyist and professional projects.

Interest in Open Hardware is high among FOSS enthusiasts but there is also a barrier to entry with the perceived difficulty and dangers of dealing with hot soldering irons, unknown components and unfamiliar naming schemes. The miniconf will use an Open Hardware assembly project as a stepping stone to help ease software developers into dealing with Open Hardware. Topics will cover both software and hardware issues, starting with simpler sessions suitable for Open Hardware beginners and progressing through to more advanced topics.

The day will run in two distinct halves. The first part of the day will be a hands-on assembly session where participants will have the chance to solder together a special hardware project developed for the miniconf. Instructors will be on hand to assist with soldering and the other mysteries of hardware assembly. The second part of the day will be presentations about Open Hardware topics, including information on software to run on the hardware project built earlier in the day.

== Venue ==

School of Architecture and Planning building, a short walk from the main conference venue. [https://www.google.com/maps/place/36%C2%B051%2714.6%22S+174%C2%B046%2710.6%22E/@-36.8540799,174.7695734,19z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en Google Maps Link]

Morning assembly session is downstairs in the Faculty Workshop on level 1.

Afternoon talks are in studio room 311, on level 3.

== Schedule ==

* 10:40 - '''12:20 SimpleBot assembly workshop''' (registration required to participate, spectators also welcome)
* 12:20 - 1:20 Lunch
* 1:20 - 1:45 '''Talk 1: NodeBot / SimpleBot Pi software basics - Jonathan Oxer'''
* 1:45 - 2:10 '''Talk 2: Using KiCAD to design the SimpleBot Shield - Angus Gratton'''
* 2:10 - 2:20 Break
* 2:20 - 2:40 '''Talk 3: Practical electronics for software developers - Jonathan Oxer'''
* 2:40 - 3:00 '''Talk 4: LEDs: Care & Feeding - Digby Turner'''
* 3:00 - 3:40 Afternoon Tea
* 3:40 - 4:00 '''Talk 5: Hardening Embedded Linux on Internet of Things platforms - Andrew McDonnell'''
* 4:00 - 4:20 '''Talk 6: Espruino: JS go under limbo stick - Maksim Lin'''
* 4:20 - 4:30 Break
* 4:30 - 5:20 '''Lightning talks, project showcase, general discussion'''

'''Lightning Talks''' (not in any particular order)

* Bare Bones MCU programming - Maksim Lin
* Why you should use KiCAD for open hardware - Tim Ansell
* Novena open source laptop project (& why it's exciting) - Angus Gratton
* ...you? If you'd like to present a 5 minute lightning talk, please email [mailto:jon@oxer.com.au jon@oxer.com.au]

== Call For Papers ==

Please see [[OHC2015-CFP]] for more information

== Discussion Group ==

There is a Google Group email list for discussion of topics related to the miniconf, including the SimpleBot assembly session:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/open-hardware-conf

== Assembly Project ==

'''ALL PLACES FILLED: All places at the assembly session have now been filled. You can still submit the registration form to go on the waiting list in case there are cancellations, but you won't be guaranteed a spot. Sorry.'''

Each year we build a project developed for the Miniconf, and this year we'll be assembling SimpleBot robots designed by Andrew Fisher and Angus Gratton. Participating in the assembly session costs AU$120, and provides you with everything required to build a complete SimpleBot including a Raspberry Pi, a PiLeven, a SimpleBot Shield, servos, and all other parts.

More details at: [[SimpleBot|OHC2015 Assembly Project: SimpleBot]]

[https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1FrQVsCqmFpgjmMW6Iy6CBjxXR4AjOglRZJpK-uczjIM/viewform?usp=send_form Assembly session registration form] '''NOTE: ALL PLACES FILLED'''

OHC2015

2015-01-12T21:12:57Z

Angus Gratton:

The Open Hardware Miniconf 2015 will take place as part of LCA 2015 in Auckland, New Zealand.

The concept of Free / Open Source Software, already well understood by LCA attendees, is complemented by a rapidly growing community focused around Open Hardware and "maker culture". One of the drivers of the popularity of the Open Hardware community is easy access to cheap devices such as Arduino, which is a microcontroller development board originally intended for classroom use but now a popular building block in all sorts of weird and wonderful hobbyist and professional projects.

Interest in Open Hardware is high among FOSS enthusiasts but there is also a barrier to entry with the perceived difficulty and dangers of dealing with hot soldering irons, unknown components and unfamiliar naming schemes. The miniconf will use an Open Hardware assembly project as a stepping stone to help ease software developers into dealing with Open Hardware. Topics will cover both software and hardware issues, starting with simpler sessions suitable for Open Hardware beginners and progressing through to more advanced topics.

The day will run in two distinct halves. The first part of the day will be a hands-on assembly session where participants will have the chance to solder together a special hardware project developed for the miniconf. Instructors will be on hand to assist with soldering and the other mysteries of hardware assembly. The second part of the day will be presentations about Open Hardware topics, including information on software to run on the hardware project built earlier in the day.

== Venue ==

School of Architecture and Planning building, a short walk from the main conference venue. [https://www.google.com/maps/place/36%C2%B051%2714.6%22S+174%C2%B046%2710.6%22E/@-36.8540799,174.7695734,19z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x0?hl=en Google Maps Link]

Morning assembly session is downstairs in the Faculty Workshop on level 1.

Afternoon talks are in studio room 311, on level 3.

== Schedule ==

* 10:40 - '''12:20 SimpleBot assembly workshop''' (registration required to participate, spectators also welcome)
* 12:20 - 1:20 Lunch
* 1:20 - 1:45 '''Talk 1: NodeBot / SimpleBot Pi software basics - Jonathan Oxer'''
* 1:45 - 2:10 '''Talk 2: Using KiCAD to design the SimpleBot Shield - Angus Gratton'''
* 2:10 - 2:20 Break
* 2:20 - 2:40 '''Talk 3: Practical electronics for software developers - Jonathan Oxer'''
* 2:40 - 3:00 '''Talk 4: LEDs: Care & Feeding - Digby Turner'''
* 3:00 - 3:40 Afternoon Tea
* 3:40 - 4:00 '''Talk 5: Hardening Embedded Linux on Internet of Things platforms - Andrew McDonnell'''
* 4:00 - 4:20 '''Talk 6: Espruino: JS go under limbo stick - Maksim Lin'''
* 4:20 - 4:30 Break
* 4:30 - 5:20 '''Lightning talks, project showcase, general discussion'''

'''Lightning Talks''' (not in any particular order)

* Bare Bones MCU programming - Maksim Lin
* Why you should use KiCAD for open hardware - Tim Ansell
* ...you? If you'd like to present a 5 minute lightning talk, please email [mailto:jon@oxer.com.au jon@oxer.com.au]

== Call For Papers ==

Please see [[OHC2015-CFP]] for more information

== Discussion Group ==

There is a Google Group email list for discussion of topics related to the miniconf, including the SimpleBot assembly session:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/open-hardware-conf

== Assembly Project ==

'''ALL PLACES FILLED: All places at the assembly session have now been filled. You can still submit the registration form to go on the waiting list in case there are cancellations, but you won't be guaranteed a spot. Sorry.'''

Each year we build a project developed for the Miniconf, and this year we'll be assembling SimpleBot robots designed by Andrew Fisher and Angus Gratton. Participating in the assembly session costs AU$120, and provides you with everything required to build a complete SimpleBot including a Raspberry Pi, a PiLeven, a SimpleBot Shield, servos, and all other parts.

More details at: [[SimpleBot|OHC2015 Assembly Project: SimpleBot]]

[https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1FrQVsCqmFpgjmMW6Iy6CBjxXR4AjOglRZJpK-uczjIM/viewform?usp=send_form Assembly session registration form] '''NOTE: ALL PLACES FILLED'''

SimpleBot-Assembly

2014-12-30T10:33:02Z

Angus Gratton: /* Tools */

== Tools ==

Your own tools are not required for the LCA assembly session, but if you are able to bring any of the following then that would be great.

If you're flying, please bear in mind that sharp items like cutters or multimeter probes will need to be put into checked baggage not carry-on.

* Wire cutters (and wire strippers if you have them)
* Multimeter
* Soldering iron
* Solder

If you want to also do the optional surface mount assembly steps, there are some additional tools [http://www.openhardwareconf.org/wiki/Surface_Mount_Assembly_for_SimpleBot_Shield#Tools_Required listed on that page]

== Check Parts In Kit ==

Your kit should contain the following items:

[[File:SimpleBot-labelled-parts.png]]

Some items are not shown in the photo:

* Cable ties
* MicroSD to SD card adapter

Some items will be slightly different to those shown:

* Mounting hardware - the vertical "standoffs" are a different type, the kit should have 4x nylon standoffs, 4x nylon nuts, 4x short nylon bolts.
* Battery pack - the plug is of a different type.

Please check over the items in your kit, and if you think you are missing something then let us know.

== Overview ==

There are three main steps to getting your SimpleBot up and running:

* Assembling the "SimpleBot Shield", which is supplied in kit form.
* Assembling the full SimpleBot chasis.
* Setting up the software and connecting to the SimpleBot.

== SimpleBot Shield Assembly ==

Optional [[Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield]] (this is an optional step for confident solderers who want to try some surface mount soldering).

[[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]]

== Chassis Assembly ==

[[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]]

== Software Setup ==

[[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]]

SimpleBot-Assembly

2014-12-30T10:31:04Z

Angus Gratton:

== Tools ==

'''Your own tools are not required''' for the LCA assembly session, but if you can bring any of the following to boost the numbers available then that would be great. If you're flying, please bear in mind that sharp items like cutters or multimeter probes will need to be put into checked baggage not carry-on.

* Wire cutters (and wire strippers if you have them)
* Multimeter
* Soldering iron
* Solder

If you want to also do the optional surface mount assembly steps, there are some additional tools [http://www.openhardwareconf.org/wiki/Surface_Mount_Assembly_for_SimpleBot_Shield#Tools_Required listed on that page]

== Check Parts In Kit ==

Your kit should contain the following items:

[[File:SimpleBot-labelled-parts.png]]

Some items are not shown in the photo:

* Cable ties
* MicroSD to SD card adapter

Some items will be slightly different to those shown:

* Mounting hardware - the vertical "standoffs" are a different type, the kit should have 4x nylon standoffs, 4x nylon nuts, 4x short nylon bolts.
* Battery pack - the plug is of a different type.

Please check over the items in your kit, and if you think you are missing something then let us know.

== Overview ==

There are three main steps to getting your SimpleBot up and running:

* Assembling the "SimpleBot Shield", which is supplied in kit form.
* Assembling the full SimpleBot chasis.
* Setting up the software and connecting to the SimpleBot.

== SimpleBot Shield Assembly ==

Optional [[Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield]] (this is an optional step for confident solderers who want to try some surface mount soldering).

[[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]]

== Chassis Assembly ==

[[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]]

== Software Setup ==

[[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]]

SimpleBot

2014-12-28T15:03:05Z

Angus Gratton:

SimpleBot is a [http://nodebots.io/ NodeBots] compatible robot platform designed by Andrew Fisher, controlled by a Raspberry Pi using a PiLeven Arduino compatible expansion board and a SimpleBot shield designed by Angus Gratton to simplify assembly. [https://github.com/nodebotsau/simplebot More information on SimpleBot designs can be found on the @nodebotsau github].

SimpleBot is designed to give you a quick win getting started with robotics, providing you with basic movement and sensor functionality that you can control from whatever software environment you like. You can then extend it with other sensors and actuators, or swap out parts to make the robot bigger or smaller, while building on the same basic principles and architecture. SimpleBot is the gateway drug to the world of robotics!

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|480px]]

SimpleBot features include:

* Simple assembly on a Coreflute chassis using cable ties and minimal tools
* Easy to modify to incorporate your own design ideas and features
* Chassis can be cut out by hand, or using a laser cutter if you have access to one
* Raspberry Pi brain
* WiFi connectivity
* PiLeven (Arduino compatible) I/O controller
* SimpleBot shield provides convenient connectors
* 2 x continuous-rotation servos for mobility
* 1 x ultrasonic distance sensor for obstacle avoidance
* 1 x light sensor for phototropic or photophobic behaviour
* 4 x WS2812 RGB LEDs for blinky fun
* Powered by common AA cells

More details available at [[SimpleBot Technical Overview]].

The first session at the [http://www.openhardwareconf.org/index.php/OHC2015 Open Hardware Miniconf 2015] will give participants the opportunity to assemble their own SimpleBot from a kit of parts, which includes all chassis parts pre-cut and ready to assemble:

[[File:SimpleBot-parts.jpg|480px]]

Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield

2014-12-27T07:37:37Z

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

= Surface Mount Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has eight surface mount components, four WS2812B RGB LEDs and four decoupling capacitors. Normally these are pre-soldered but competent solderers looking for a challenge can solder them on the day.

These devices are usually soldered using solder paste and hot air or infrared heating, but they can be soldered using a common soldering iron as well.

'''These steps are completely optional, feel free to get a presoldered shield instead. If you plan to do the SMD assembly please bring some extra tools (described below)'''.

== Parts to Solder ==

As well as the bare SimpleBot Shield PCB, you will need 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs (the large square packages) and 4 "0603" sized 100nF capacitors (the small rectangular packages).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Components.jpg|600px]]

== Tools Required ==

As well as the components, you will need some special tools for SMD assembly:

* Tweezers for placing components
* Liquid solder flux (flux pens are the easiest form of these).
* Some kind of magnification for checking your work (depending on your eyesight you might need something you can solder under, or just a magnifier you can use afterwards).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Componenents plus tools.jpg|400px]]

== Soldering Technique ==

The soldering technique we're going to use is called tack-then-reflow. This means we apply a tiny bit of solder to one pin of each package to hold it in place, then "reflow" solder onto the rest of the pads.

We'll go over the steps of the technique further on, but if you want a preview then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE&t=6m50s Dave Jones' eevblog covers the technique well in this video].

== IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation ==

The WS2812Bs have 4 pads that need to be soldered down, numbered 1 through 4. There is a "pin 1" marking on the board. However, '''the marking on the WS2812B package is not pin 1'''. It is pin 3.

[[File:WS2812B Markings.png]]

So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue - and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these.

The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 1" pad as this is closest to the green element. This means removing your soldering iron shortly after the solder flows into the joint.
* Turn your soldering iron temperature down, 260C should be plenty.
* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

== Sequence ==

I recommend doing an LED and a capacitor at a time, moving from corner to corner.

When each corner is done it will look something like this:

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

== Tacking Down ==

First we "tack" a corner of each component so it can't move. Start by flowing a small amount of solder onto just one bare pad of the capacitor and one pad of the LED, as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg|400px]]

Don't apply too much solder, use solder wick to take some off if necessary.

In the picture above I've applied solder to two pads on the left side, because I'm left handed. You can use pads on the right side if you prefer.

Next, use tweezers to place the capacitor on top of the pads. Hold the capacitor in place with the tweezers in one hand, and use your other hand to bring the soldering iron in to touch the pad where you already placed some solder. As the pad heats the solder will "reflow" up from the pad onto the end of the capacitor:

[[File:SimpleBot Capacitor One End Soldered.jpg|400px]]

Once the solder cools it "tacks" the capacitor down to the board, so it can't move. Try to bump it with your tweezers, it should stay put.

You may note that in the photo above the solder joint looks particularly poor, it's a "cold" joint and not a lot of solder has flowed up onto the capacitor. This doesn't matter too much at this stage, as long as the capacitor is held in place. We can improve the solder joint later on.

Repeat the "tacking" process with the LED - place the LED on top of its pads, hold it in place with the tweezers in one hand while you heat the pad you presoldered and it solders on to tack it in place. '''Remember to check the LED orientation before you start soldering!'''

[[File:SimpleBot LED one pad soldered.jpg|400px]]

If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

== Soldering all pads ==

Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

When soldering the LED, most of the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the PCB pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

In the picture above, there's actually a bit too much solder on most of the pads - but it doesn't matter.

== Solder remaining corners ==

Once the first two components are soldered down, repeat for each corner of the shield.

Once the SMD soldering is done, move on to the [[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]] step.

Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield

2014-12-27T07:35:00Z

Angus Gratton: /* Tacking Down */

= Surface Mount Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has eight surface mount components, four WS2812B RGB LEDs and four decoupling capacitors. Normally these are pre-soldered but competent solderers looking for a challenge can solder them on the day.

These devices are usually soldered using solder paste and hot air or infrared heating, but they can be soldered using a common soldering iron as well.

'''These steps are completely optional, feel free to get a presoldered shield instead. If you plan to do the SMD assembly please bring some extra tools (described below)'''.

== Parts to Solder ==

As well as the bare SimpleBot Shield PCB, you will need 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs (the large square packages) and 4 "0603" sized 100nF capacitors (the small rectangular packages).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Components.jpg|600px]]

== Tools Required ==

As well as the components, you will need some special tools for SMD assembly:

* Tweezers for placing components
* Liquid solder flux (flux pens are the easiest form of these).
* Some kind of magnification for checking your work (depending on your eyesight you might need something you can solder under, or just a magnifier you can use afterwards).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Componenents plus tools.jpg|400px]]

== Soldering Technique ==

The soldering technique we're going to use is called tack-then-reflow. This means we apply a tiny bit of solder to one pin of each package to hold it in place, then "reflow" solder onto the rest of the pads.

We'll go over the steps of the technique further on, but if you want a preview then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE&t=6m50s Dave Jones' eevblog covers the technique well in this video].

== IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation ==

The WS2812Bs have 4 pads that need to be soldered down, numbered 1 through 4. There is a "pin 1" marking on the board. However, '''the marking on the WS2812B package is not pin 1'''. It is pin 3.

[[File:WS2812B Markings.png]]

So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue - and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these (there's a microscope photo under the next heading).

The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 1" pad as this is closest to the green element. This means removing your soldering iron shortly after the solder flows into the joint.
* Turn your soldering iron temperature down, 260C should be plenty.
* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

== Sequence ==

I recommend doing an LED and a capacitor at a time, moving from corner to corner.

When each corner is done it will look something like this:

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

== Tacking Down ==

First we "tack" a corner of each component so it can't move. Start by flowing a small amount of solder onto just one bare pad of the capacitor and one pad of the LED, as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg|400px]]

Don't apply too much solder, use solder wick to take some off if necessary.

In the picture above I've applied solder to two pads on the left side, because I'm left handed. You can use pads on the right side if you prefer.

Next, use tweezers to place the capacitor on top of the pads. Hold the capacitor in place with the tweezers in one hand, and use your other hand to bring the soldering iron in to touch the pad where you already placed some solder. As the pad heats the solder will "reflow" up from the pad onto the end of the capacitor:

[[File:SimpleBot Capacitor One End Soldered.jpg|400px]]

Once the solder cools it "tacks" the capacitor down to the board, so it can't move. Try to bump it with your tweezers, it should stay put.

You may note that in the photo above the solder joint looks particularly poor, it's a "cold" joint and not a lot of solder has flowed up onto the capacitor. This doesn't matter too much at this stage, as long as the capacitor is held in place. We can improve the solder joint later on.

Repeat the "tacking" process with the LED - place the LED on top of its pads, hold it in place with the tweezers in one hand while you heat the pad you presoldered and it solders on to tack it in place. '''Remember to check the LED orientation before you start soldering!'''

[[File:SimpleBot LED one pad soldered.jpg|400px]]

If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

== Soldering all pads ==

Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

When soldering the LED, most of the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the PCB pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

In the picture above, there's actually a bit too much solder on most of the pads - but it doesn't matter.

== Solder remaining corners ==

Once the first two components are soldered down, repeat for each corner of the shield.

Once the SMD soldering is done, move on to the [[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]] step.

Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield

2014-12-27T07:34:33Z

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

= Surface Mount Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has eight surface mount components, four WS2812B RGB LEDs and four decoupling capacitors. Normally these are pre-soldered but competent solderers looking for a challenge can solder them on the day.

These devices are usually soldered using solder paste and hot air or infrared heating, but they can be soldered using a common soldering iron as well.

'''These steps are completely optional, feel free to get a presoldered shield instead. If you plan to do the SMD assembly please bring some extra tools (described below)'''.

== Parts to Solder ==

As well as the bare SimpleBot Shield PCB, you will need 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs (the large square packages) and 4 "0603" sized 100nF capacitors (the small rectangular packages).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Components.jpg|600px]]

== Tools Required ==

As well as the components, you will need some special tools for SMD assembly:

* Tweezers for placing components
* Liquid solder flux (flux pens are the easiest form of these).
* Some kind of magnification for checking your work (depending on your eyesight you might need something you can solder under, or just a magnifier you can use afterwards).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Componenents plus tools.jpg|400px]]

== Soldering Technique ==

The soldering technique we're going to use is called tack-then-reflow. This means we apply a tiny bit of solder to one pin of each package to hold it in place, then "reflow" solder onto the rest of the pads.

We'll go over the steps of the technique further on, but if you want a preview then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE&t=6m50s Dave Jones' eevblog covers the technique well in this video].

== IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation ==

The WS2812Bs have 4 pads that need to be soldered down, numbered 1 through 4. There is a "pin 1" marking on the board. However, '''the marking on the WS2812B package is not pin 1'''. It is pin 3.

[[File:WS2812B Markings.png]]

So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue - and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these (there's a microscope photo under the next heading).

The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 1" pad as this is closest to the green element. This means removing your soldering iron shortly after the solder flows into the joint.
* Turn your soldering iron temperature down, 260C should be plenty.
* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

== Sequence ==

I recommend doing an LED and a capacitor at a time, moving from corner to corner.

When each corner is done it will look something like this:

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

== Tacking Down ==

First we "tack" a corner of each component so it can't move. Start by flowing a small amount of solder onto just one bare pad of the capacitor and one pad of the LED, as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg|400px]]

Don't apply too much solder, use solder wick to take some off if necessary.

In the picture above I've applied solder to two pads on the left side, because I'm left handed. You can use pads on the right side if you prefer.

Next, use tweezers to place the capacitor on top of the pads. Hold the capacitor in place with the tweezers in one hand, and use your other hand to bring the soldering iron in to touch the pad where you already placed some solder. As the pad heats the solder will "reflow" up from the pad onto the end of the capacitor:

[[File:SimpleBot Capacitor One End Soldered.jpg|400px]]

Once the solder cools it "tacks" the capacitor down to the board, so it can't move. Try to bump it with your tweezers, it should stay put.

You may note that in the photo above the solder joint looks particularly poor, it's a "cold" joint and not a lot of solder has flowed up onto the capacitor. This doesn't matter too much at this stage, as long as the capacitor is held in place. We can improve the solder joint later on.

Repeat the "tacking" process with the LED - place the LED on top of its pads, hold it in place with the tweezers in one hand while you heat the pad you presoldered and it solders on to tack it in place. '''Remember to check the LED orientation before you start soldering!'''

[[File:SimpleBot LED one pad soldered.jpg|400px]]

If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

'''When soldering the LED take special care not to apply too much heat - the green element of the WS2812B is quite heat sensitive and can be damaged if too much heat flows into the LED. You want to remove the soldering iron shortly after the solder becomes molten.'''

== Soldering all pads ==

Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

When soldering the LED, most of the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the PCB pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

In the picture above, there's actually a bit too much solder on most of the pads - but it doesn't matter.

== Solder remaining corners ==

Once the first two components are soldered down, repeat for each corner of the shield.

Once the SMD soldering is done, move on to the [[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]] step.

Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield

2014-12-27T07:33:53Z

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

= Surface Mount Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has eight surface mount components, four WS2812B RGB LEDs and four decoupling capacitors. Normally these are pre-soldered but competent solderers looking for a challenge can solder them on the day.

These devices are usually soldered using solder paste and hot air or infrared heating, but they can be soldered using a common soldering iron as well.

'''These steps are completely optional, feel free to get a presoldered shield instead. If you plan to do the SMD assembly please bring some extra tools (described below)'''.

== Parts to Solder ==

As well as the bare SimpleBot Shield PCB, you will need 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs (the large square packages) and 4 "0603" sized 100nF capacitors (the small rectangular packages).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Components.jpg|600px]]

== Tools Required ==

As well as the components, you will need some special tools for SMD assembly:

* Tweezers for placing components
* Liquid solder flux (flux pens are the easiest form of these).
* Some kind of magnification for checking your work (depending on your eyesight you might need something you can solder under, or just a magnifier you can use afterwards).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Componenents plus tools.jpg|400px]]

== Soldering Technique ==

The soldering technique we're going to use is called tack-then-reflow. This means we apply a tiny bit of solder to one pin of each package to hold it in place, then "reflow" solder onto the rest of the pads.

We'll go over the steps of the technique further on, but if you want a preview then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE&t=6m50s Dave Jones' eevblog covers the technique well in this video].

== IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation ==

The WS2812Bs have 4 pads that need to be soldered down, numbered 1 through 4. There is a "pin 1" marking on the board. However, '''the marking on the WS2812B package is not pin 1'''. It is pin 3.

[[File:WS2812B Markings.png]]

So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue - and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these (there's a microscope photo under the next heading).

The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 1" pad as this is closest to the green element.
* Turn your soldering iron temperature down, 260C should be plenty.
* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

== Sequence ==

I recommend doing an LED and a capacitor at a time, moving from corner to corner.

When each corner is done it will look something like this:

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

== Tacking Down ==

First we "tack" a corner of each component so it can't move. Start by flowing a small amount of solder onto just one bare pad of the capacitor and one pad of the LED, as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg|400px]]

Don't apply too much solder, use solder wick to take some off if necessary.

In the picture above I've applied solder to two pads on the left side, because I'm left handed. You can use pads on the right side if you prefer.

Next, use tweezers to place the capacitor on top of the pads. Hold the capacitor in place with the tweezers in one hand, and use your other hand to bring the soldering iron in to touch the pad where you already placed some solder. As the pad heats the solder will "reflow" up from the pad onto the end of the capacitor:

[[File:SimpleBot Capacitor One End Soldered.jpg|400px]]

Once the solder cools it "tacks" the capacitor down to the board, so it can't move. Try to bump it with your tweezers, it should stay put.

You may note that in the photo above the solder joint looks particularly poor, it's a "cold" joint and not a lot of solder has flowed up onto the capacitor. This doesn't matter too much at this stage, as long as the capacitor is held in place. We can improve the solder joint later on.

Repeat the "tacking" process with the LED - place the LED on top of its pads, hold it in place with the tweezers in one hand while you heat the pad you presoldered and it solders on to tack it in place. '''Remember to check the LED orientation before you start soldering!'''

[[File:SimpleBot LED one pad soldered.jpg|400px]]

If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

'''When soldering the LED take special care not to apply too much heat - the green element of the WS2812B is quite heat sensitive and can be damaged if too much heat flows into the LED. You want to remove the soldering iron shortly after the solder becomes molten.'''

== Soldering all pads ==

Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

When soldering the LED, most of the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the PCB pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

In the picture above, there's actually a bit too much solder on most of the pads - but it doesn't matter.

== Solder remaining corners ==

Once the first two components are soldered down, repeat for each corner of the shield.

Once the SMD soldering is done, move on to the [[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]] step.

Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield

2014-12-27T07:31:31Z

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

= Surface Mount Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has eight surface mount components, four WS2812B RGB LEDs and four decoupling capacitors. Normally these are pre-soldered but competent solderers looking for a challenge can solder them on the day.

These devices are usually soldered using solder paste and hot air or infrared heating, but they can be soldered using a common soldering iron as well.

'''These steps are completely optional, feel free to get a presoldered shield instead. If you plan to do the SMD assembly please bring some extra tools (described below)'''.

== Parts to Solder ==

As well as the bare SimpleBot Shield PCB, you will need 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs (the large square packages) and 4 "0603" sized 100nF capacitors (the small rectangular packages).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Components.jpg|600px]]

== Tools Required ==

As well as the components, you will need some special tools for SMD assembly:

* Tweezers for placing components
* Liquid solder flux (flux pens are the easiest form of these).
* Some kind of magnification for checking your work (depending on your eyesight you might need something you can solder under, or just a magnifier you can use afterwards).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Componenents plus tools.jpg|400px]]

== Soldering Technique ==

The soldering technique we're going to use is called tack-then-reflow. This means we apply a tiny bit of solder to one pin of each package to hold it in place, then "reflow" solder onto the rest of the pads.

We'll go over the steps of the technique further on, but if you want a preview then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE&t=6m50s Dave Jones' eevblog covers the technique well in this video].

== IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation ==

The WS2812Bs have 4 pads that need to be soldered down, numbered 1 through 4. There is a "pin 1" marking on the board. However, '''the marking on the WS2812B package is not pin 1'''. It is pin 3.

[[File:WS2812B Markings.png]]

So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue - and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these (there's a microscope photo under the next heading).

The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 3" pad (with the triangle) as this is closest to the green element.
* Turn your soldering iron down, 260C should be plenty.
* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

== Sequence ==

I recommend doing an LED and a capacitor at a time, moving from corner to corner.

When each corner is done it will look something like this:

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

== Tacking Down ==

First we "tack" a corner of each component so it can't move. Start by flowing a small amount of solder onto just one bare pad of the capacitor and one pad of the LED, as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg|400px]]

Don't apply too much solder, use solder wick to take some off if necessary.

In the picture above I've applied solder to two pads on the left side, because I'm left handed. You can use pads on the right side if you prefer.

Next, use tweezers to place the capacitor on top of the pads. Hold the capacitor in place with the tweezers in one hand, and use your other hand to bring the soldering iron in to touch the pad where you already placed some solder. As the pad heats the solder will "reflow" up from the pad onto the end of the capacitor:

[[File:SimpleBot Capacitor One End Soldered.jpg|400px]]

Once the solder cools it "tacks" the capacitor down to the board, so it can't move. Try to bump it with your tweezers, it should stay put.

You may note that in the photo above the solder joint looks particularly poor, it's a "cold" joint and not a lot of solder has flowed up onto the capacitor. This doesn't matter too much at this stage, as long as the capacitor is held in place. We can improve the solder joint later on.

Repeat the "tacking" process with the LED - place the LED on top of its pads, hold it in place with the tweezers in one hand while you heat the pad you presoldered and it solders on to tack it in place. '''Remember to check the LED orientation before you start soldering!'''

[[File:SimpleBot LED one pad soldered.jpg|400px]]

If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

'''When soldering the LED take special care not to apply too much heat - the green element of the WS2812B is quite heat sensitive and can be damaged if too much heat flows into the LED. You want to remove the soldering iron shortly after the solder becomes molten.'''

== Soldering all pads ==

Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

When soldering the LED, most of the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the PCB pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

In the picture above, there's actually a bit too much solder on most of the pads - but it doesn't matter.

== Solder remaining corners ==

Once the first two components are soldered down, repeat for each corner of the shield.

Once the SMD soldering is done, move on to the [[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]] step.

Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield

2014-12-27T07:31:17Z

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

= Surface Mount Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has eight surface mount components, four WS2812B RGB LEDs and four decoupling capacitors. Normally these are pre-soldered but competent solderers looking for a challenge can solder them on the day.

These devices are usually soldered using solder paste and hot air or infrared heating, but they can be soldered using a common soldering iron as well.

'''These steps are completely optional, feel free to get a presoldered shield instead. If you plan to do the SMD assembly please bring some extra tools (described below)'''.

== Parts to Solder ==

As well as the bare SimpleBot Shield PCB, you will need 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs (the large square packages) and 4 "0603" sized 100nF capacitors (the small rectangular packages).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Components.jpg|600px]]

== Tools Required ==

As well as the components, you will need some special tools for SMD assembly:

* Tweezers for placing components
* Liquid solder flux (flux pens are the easiest form of these).
* Some kind of magnification for checking your work (depending on your eyesight you might need something you can solder under, or just a magnifier you can use afterwards).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Componenents plus tools.jpg|400px]]

== Soldering Technique ==

The soldering technique we're going to use is called tack-then-reflow. This means we apply a tiny bit of solder to one pin of each package to hold it in place, then "reflow" solder onto the rest of the pads.

We'll go over the steps of the technique further on, but if you want a preview then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE&t=6m50s Dave Jones' eevblog covers the technique well in this video].

== IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation ==

The WS2812Bs have 4 pads that need to be soldered down, numbered 1 through 4. There is a "pin 1" marking on the board. However, '''the marking on the WS2812B package is not pin 1'''. It is pin 3.

[[File:WS2812B Markings.png]]

So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue - and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these (there's a microscope photo under the next heading).

The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

* Apply as little heat as possible to each pAd, especially the "number 3" pad (with the triangle) as this is closest to the green element.
* Turn your soldering iron down, 260C should be plenty.
* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

== Sequence ==

I recommend doing an LED and a capacitor at a time, moving from corner to corner.

When each corner is done it will look something like this:

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

== Tacking Down ==

First we "tack" a corner of each component so it can't move. Start by flowing a small amount of solder onto just one bare pad of the capacitor and one pad of the LED, as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg|400px]]

Don't apply too much solder, use solder wick to take some off if necessary.

In the picture above I've applied solder to two pads on the left side, because I'm left handed. You can use pads on the right side if you prefer.

Next, use tweezers to place the capacitor on top of the pads. Hold the capacitor in place with the tweezers in one hand, and use your other hand to bring the soldering iron in to touch the pad where you already placed some solder. As the pad heats the solder will "reflow" up from the pad onto the end of the capacitor:

[[File:SimpleBot Capacitor One End Soldered.jpg|400px]]

Once the solder cools it "tacks" the capacitor down to the board, so it can't move. Try to bump it with your tweezers, it should stay put.

You may note that in the photo above the solder joint looks particularly poor, it's a "cold" joint and not a lot of solder has flowed up onto the capacitor. This doesn't matter too much at this stage, as long as the capacitor is held in place. We can improve the solder joint later on.

Repeat the "tacking" process with the LED - place the LED on top of its pads, hold it in place with the tweezers in one hand while you heat the pad you presoldered and it solders on to tack it in place. '''Remember to check the LED orientation before you start soldering!'''

[[File:SimpleBot LED one pad soldered.jpg|400px]]

If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

'''When soldering the LED take special care not to apply too much heat - the green element of the WS2812B is quite heat sensitive and can be damaged if too much heat flows into the LED. You want to remove the soldering iron shortly after the solder becomes molten.'''

== Soldering all pads ==

Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

When soldering the LED, most of the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the PCB pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

In the picture above, there's actually a bit too much solder on most of the pads - but it doesn't matter.

== Solder remaining corners ==

Once the first two components are soldered down, repeat for each corner of the shield.

Once the SMD soldering is done, move on to the [[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]] step.

Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield

2014-12-27T07:30:51Z

Angus Gratton: /* IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation */

= Surface Mount Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has eight surface mount components, four WS2812B RGB LEDs and four decoupling capacitors. Normally these are pre-soldered but competent solderers looking for a challenge can solder them on the day.

These devices are usually soldered using solder paste and hot air or infrared heating, but they can be soldered using a common soldering iron as well.

'''These steps are completely optional, feel free to get a presoldered shield instead. If you plan to do the SMD assembly please bring some extra tools (described below)'''.

== Parts to Solder ==

As well as the bare SimpleBot Shield PCB, you will need 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs (the large square packages) and 4 "0603" sized 100nF capacitors (the small rectangular packages).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Components.jpg|600px]]

== Tools Required ==

As well as the components, you will need some special tools for SMD assembly:

* Tweezers for placing components
* Liquid solder flux (flux pens are the easiest form of these).
* Some kind of magnification for checking your work (depending on your eyesight you might need something you can solder under, or just a magnifier you can use afterwards).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Componenents plus tools.jpg|400px]]

== Soldering Technique ==

The soldering technique we're going to use is called tack-then-reflow. This means we apply a tiny bit of solder to one pin of each package to hold it in place, then "reflow" solder onto the rest of the pads.

We'll go over the steps of the technique further on, but if you want a preview then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE&t=6m50s Dave Jones' eevblog covers the technique well in this video].

== IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation ==

The WS2812Bs have 4 pads that need to be soldered down, numbered 1 through 4. There is a "pin 1" marking on the board. However, '''the marking on the WS2812B package is not pin 1'''. It is pin 3.

[[File:WS2812B Markings.png]]

So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these (there's a microscope photo further down the page).

The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

* Apply as little heat as possible to each pAd, especially the "number 3" pad (with the triangle) as this is closest to the green element.
* Turn your soldering iron down, 260C should be plenty.
* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

== Sequence ==

I recommend doing an LED and a capacitor at a time, moving from corner to corner.

When each corner is done it will look something like this:

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

== Tacking Down ==

First we "tack" a corner of each component so it can't move. Start by flowing a small amount of solder onto just one bare pad of the capacitor and one pad of the LED, as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg|400px]]

Don't apply too much solder, use solder wick to take some off if necessary.

In the picture above I've applied solder to two pads on the left side, because I'm left handed. You can use pads on the right side if you prefer.

Next, use tweezers to place the capacitor on top of the pads. Hold the capacitor in place with the tweezers in one hand, and use your other hand to bring the soldering iron in to touch the pad where you already placed some solder. As the pad heats the solder will "reflow" up from the pad onto the end of the capacitor:

[[File:SimpleBot Capacitor One End Soldered.jpg|400px]]

Once the solder cools it "tacks" the capacitor down to the board, so it can't move. Try to bump it with your tweezers, it should stay put.

You may note that in the photo above the solder joint looks particularly poor, it's a "cold" joint and not a lot of solder has flowed up onto the capacitor. This doesn't matter too much at this stage, as long as the capacitor is held in place. We can improve the solder joint later on.

Repeat the "tacking" process with the LED - place the LED on top of its pads, hold it in place with the tweezers in one hand while you heat the pad you presoldered and it solders on to tack it in place. '''Remember to check the LED orientation before you start soldering!'''

[[File:SimpleBot LED one pad soldered.jpg|400px]]

If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

'''When soldering the LED take special care not to apply too much heat - the green element of the WS2812B is quite heat sensitive and can be damaged if too much heat flows into the LED. You want to remove the soldering iron shortly after the solder becomes molten.'''

== Soldering all pads ==

Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

When soldering the LED, most of the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the PCB pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

In the picture above, there's actually a bit too much solder on most of the pads - but it doesn't matter.

== Solder remaining corners ==

Once the first two components are soldered down, repeat for each corner of the shield.

Once the SMD soldering is done, move on to the [[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]] step.

SimpleBot Chassis Assembly

2014-12-22T05:04:04Z

Angus Gratton: /* Continuous Rotation Servo "Motors" */

= SimpleBot Chassis Assembly =

Now the SimpleBot shield is built, the next step is to build the SimpleBot itself.

== Chassis Parts ==

The main chassis of the SimpleBot is made from a corrugated plastic called CorFlute, which is cheap and fast to laser cut. The SimpleBot creator, [https://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher], came up with this design.

There are two pieces - a large base plate, and a smaller front bumper plate.

You may have to press out some of the cutouts from the plates, if the laser cutter didn't cut them all the way through. A screwdriver or a craft knife will help with any particularly stubborn pieces.

After all the cutouts are removed, the front bumper clips onto the base plate like this:

[[File:SimpleBot chassis base and bumper.jpg|400px]]

The pieces are both symmetrical so there is no "wrong" way to attach them.

== Mount Raspberry Pi ==

After clipping on the bumper, we screw the Raspberry Pi onto the base plate on top of 10mm high standoffs.

'''Take care when mounting the Raspberry Pi as it is sensitive to static discharge. Ground yourself before handling it.'''

The standoffs you'll have are slightly different to the ones shown in this picture. The actual standoffs have a female threaded hole in the bottom and a male threaded extension at the top.

Mount the standoffs onto the four small holes in the base plate:

[[File:SimpleBot standoffs.jpg|400px]]

Use the four short nylon bolts to screw the standoffs into place through the bottom of the plate.

Once the standoffs are firmly mounted, place the Raspberry Pi on top and screw it down using the nylon nuts. The USB ports on the Raspberry Pi should point forward, towards the front bumper.

[[File:SimpleBot Pi mounted.jpg|400px]]

== Continuous Rotation Servo "Motors" ==

The motors for the SimpleBot are continuous rotation hobby servo motors.

Flip the chassis assembly over so the Raspberry Pi is facing down, as the ''motors and battery pack are mounted on the bottom''.

The servos are aligned with square mounting holes, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot servo alignment.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot servo alignment 2.jpg|400px]]

The shaft on each servo should be closest to the front of the SimpleBot, near the bumper.

Each servo is held on via two cable ties. Each cable tie runs through the mounting holes, around the servo.

[[File:SimpleBot servo cable ties top view.jpg|400px]]

Here's a close up of one side of the SimpleBot:

[[File:SimpleBot servo cable ties side view.jpg|400px]]

And the other side:

[[File:SimpleBot servo cable ties side view 2.jpg|400px]]

In these photos the cable ties may be a little too tight, as the CorFlute base has bent a little at the side. This doesn't really matter, but they don't have to be this tight!

== Battery Pack ==

The 6 cell battery pack is also mounted using two cable ties to form a "cradle" under the robot base. Unlike the servos, you want the battery "cradle" to be a bit loose so you can pull the pack out to change batteries.

Start by screwing the two leads from the battery pack into the DC jack:

[[File: SimpleBot leads into DC jack.jpg|200px]]

Then insert the Alkaline AA cells in the pack.

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|200px]]

'''IMPORTANT: Once the batteries are installed the DC jack terminals carry 9V, and can potentially damage electronics if they brush across them. Take care not to rest the DC jack against any of the electronics! It should sit out to the side away from the rest of the robot.'''

With the SimpleBot base upside down, place the battery pack between the two servos. The lead should come out towards the rear of the robot, pointing away from the front bumper.

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack on base.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack on base from side.jpg|400px]]

The cable ties to form the "cradle" are inserted into square mounting holes on each side of the battery pack, underneath the Raspberry Pi. This can be a little bit fiddly, it may be helpful to place the battery pack off to the side after sizing it up, and then slide it back in once the cable ties are loosely inserted.

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack cradle.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack cradle 2.jpg|400px]]

From the top side of the SimpleBot, the battery cradle cable ties will look like this:

[[File:SimpleBot battery cable ties top 1.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot battery cable ties top 2.jpg|400px]]

== Wheels ==

The SimpleBot has two wheels, and each wheel is made up of a sandwich of two pieces of CorFlute. The wheels are held on via fine wire, we're using "wire wrap" wire designed for electronics.

[[File:SimpleBot wheel pieces.jpg|400px]]

Cut two medium length pieces of wire, and run each through opposite holes.

[[File:SimpleBot wheel with wire pieces.jpg|400px]]

Each wheel is made up of two identical pieces of CorFlute.

On top of each wheel, run the wires through the "servo horns" that mount on the servos:

[[File:SimpleBot servo horn wires.jpg|400px]]

The central mounting hole on the horn should line up with the hole in the centre of the wheel:

[[File:SimpleBot servo horn wires from back.jpg|400px]]

Once everything is lined up, tie the wire ends down and cut them off.

[[File:SimpleBot servo horn wires cut off.jpg|400px]]

'''NOT SHOWN: For the "cross" type servo horn, repeat the process on the other two corners to make a stronger binding between the horn and the wheel. On the "straight" type horn that is shown, you probably also want to run some wire across the horn through the opposte corners, to bind it as tightly as possible to the wheel.'''

Repeat for the second wheel.

After you think both wheels are securely tied onto the servo horns, mount the servo horns on the servos and screw them down in the centre:

[[File:SimpleBot wheel mounted.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot with both wheels mounted.jpg|400px]]

== "Sled" ==

Unless you want to update your SimpleBot to become a "BalanceBot", it will need something for the chassis to balance against on top of only two wheels.

To keep costs low, the SimpleBot uses a simple cable tie to form this "sled" to balance against. Forming the "sled" is a little tricky to explain, you may want to go and look at a completed SimpleBot in order to understand.

Start by flipping the robot upside down, and push a cable tie through the '''end two''' sled mounting holes as shown, with the "tab" on the inside of the two holes:

[[File:SimpleBot sled cable tie pushed in.jpg|400px]]

Take the outer end of the cable tie and wrap it all the way over the top, through the innermost mounting hole, then back through the adjacent hole. You have to feed the tie through as you go:

[[File:SimpleBot sled cable tie looped.jpg|400px]]

Once you're sure it's looped OK, push the end of the cable tie into the tab. Don't tighten it right up yet! You need to check the height is OK.

[[File:SimpleBot sled cable tie inserted.jpg|400px]]

Flip the robot over, and adjust the cable tie until the robot seems to sit flat on the "sled". Then cut off the end of the tie:

[[File:SimpleBot sled finished.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot sled from the top.jpg|400px]]

== PiLeven ==

Mounting the PiLeven is fairly straightforward, it just presses down onto the Raspberry Pi header as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot with PiLeven mounted.jpg|400px]]

== SimpleBot Shield ==

Mounting the SimpleBot Shield is also straightforward, it drops onto the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot with PiLeven and shield.jpg|400px]]

== Connections ==

Mount the Ultrasonic Rangefinder sensor by dropping it into the 4 pin header at the front of the SimpleBot.

Connect the servo motors by feeding the connectors through the small holes in the base plate, then plug them into the two "motor" headers. Orientation of the servo connections matter - the yellow signal wire faces towards the front of the bot, as shown.

Connect the Wifi adapter by plugging it into a USB port on the front. In the position shown, the antenna doesn't interfere with the Ultrasonic rangefinder (although the rangefinder does appear to detract from the wireless reception a little bit).

[[File:SimpleBot with ultrasonic and servos.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot with ultrasonic and servos from top.jpg|400px]]

== Power Connection ==

The battery pack plugs directly into the DC jack on the back of the PiLeven. Don't plug it in until you've prepared the SD card to boot up the Pi.

[[File:SimpleBot power connection.jpg|400px]]

Removing the DC jack connection will power down the Pi immediately, always try to shut down Linux before doing this.

== All Done ==

Congratulations, you built a SimpleBot!

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

Next step is to prepare the SD card and perform the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]].

SimpleBot Chassis Assembly

2014-12-22T05:03:22Z

Angus Gratton: /* Chassis Parts */

= SimpleBot Chassis Assembly =

Now the SimpleBot shield is built, the next step is to build the SimpleBot itself.

== Chassis Parts ==

The main chassis of the SimpleBot is made from a corrugated plastic called CorFlute, which is cheap and fast to laser cut. The SimpleBot creator, [https://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher], came up with this design.

There are two pieces - a large base plate, and a smaller front bumper plate.

You may have to press out some of the cutouts from the plates, if the laser cutter didn't cut them all the way through. A screwdriver or a craft knife will help with any particularly stubborn pieces.

After all the cutouts are removed, the front bumper clips onto the base plate like this:

[[File:SimpleBot chassis base and bumper.jpg|400px]]

The pieces are both symmetrical so there is no "wrong" way to attach them.

== Mount Raspberry Pi ==

After clipping on the bumper, we screw the Raspberry Pi onto the base plate on top of 10mm high standoffs.

'''Take care when mounting the Raspberry Pi as it is sensitive to static discharge. Ground yourself before handling it.'''

The standoffs you'll have are slightly different to the ones shown in this picture. The actual standoffs have a female threaded hole in the bottom and a male threaded extension at the top.

Mount the standoffs onto the four small holes in the base plate:

[[File:SimpleBot standoffs.jpg|400px]]

Use the four short nylon bolts to screw the standoffs into place through the bottom of the plate.

Once the standoffs are firmly mounted, place the Raspberry Pi on top and screw it down using the nylon nuts. The USB ports on the Raspberry Pi should point forward, towards the front bumper.

[[File:SimpleBot Pi mounted.jpg|400px]]

== Continuous Rotation Servo "Motors" ==

The motors for the SimpleBot are continuous rotation hobby servo motors.

Flip the chassis assembly over so the Raspberry Pi is facing down, as the ''motors and battery pack are mounted on the bottom''.

The servos are aligned with square mounting holes, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot servo alignment.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot servo alignment 2.jpg|400px]]

The shaft on each servo should be closest to the front of the SimpleBot, near the bumper.

Each servo is held on via two cable ties. Each cable tie run through the mounting holes, around the servo.

[[File:SimpleBot servo cable ties top view.jpg|400px]]

Here's a close up of one side of the SimpleBot:

[[File:SimpleBot servo cable ties side view.jpg|400px]]

And the other side:

[[File:SimpleBot servo cable ties side view 2.jpg|400px]]

In these photos the cable ties may be a little too tight, as the CorFlute base has bent a little at the side. This doesn't really matter, but they don't have to be this tight!

== Battery Pack ==

The 6 cell battery pack is also mounted using two cable ties to form a "cradle" under the robot base. Unlike the servos, you want the battery "cradle" to be a bit loose so you can pull the pack out to change batteries.

Start by screwing the two leads from the battery pack into the DC jack:

[[File: SimpleBot leads into DC jack.jpg|200px]]

Then insert the Alkaline AA cells in the pack.

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|200px]]

'''IMPORTANT: Once the batteries are installed the DC jack terminals carry 9V, and can potentially damage electronics if they brush across them. Take care not to rest the DC jack against any of the electronics! It should sit out to the side away from the rest of the robot.'''

With the SimpleBot base upside down, place the battery pack between the two servos. The lead should come out towards the rear of the robot, pointing away from the front bumper.

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack on base.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack on base from side.jpg|400px]]

The cable ties to form the "cradle" are inserted into square mounting holes on each side of the battery pack, underneath the Raspberry Pi. This can be a little bit fiddly, it may be helpful to place the battery pack off to the side after sizing it up, and then slide it back in once the cable ties are loosely inserted.

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack cradle.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack cradle 2.jpg|400px]]

From the top side of the SimpleBot, the battery cradle cable ties will look like this:

[[File:SimpleBot battery cable ties top 1.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot battery cable ties top 2.jpg|400px]]

== Wheels ==

The SimpleBot has two wheels, and each wheel is made up of a sandwich of two pieces of CorFlute. The wheels are held on via fine wire, we're using "wire wrap" wire designed for electronics.

[[File:SimpleBot wheel pieces.jpg|400px]]

Cut two medium length pieces of wire, and run each through opposite holes.

[[File:SimpleBot wheel with wire pieces.jpg|400px]]

Each wheel is made up of two identical pieces of CorFlute.

On top of each wheel, run the wires through the "servo horns" that mount on the servos:

[[File:SimpleBot servo horn wires.jpg|400px]]

The central mounting hole on the horn should line up with the hole in the centre of the wheel:

[[File:SimpleBot servo horn wires from back.jpg|400px]]

Once everything is lined up, tie the wire ends down and cut them off.

[[File:SimpleBot servo horn wires cut off.jpg|400px]]

'''NOT SHOWN: For the "cross" type servo horn, repeat the process on the other two corners to make a stronger binding between the horn and the wheel. On the "straight" type horn that is shown, you probably also want to run some wire across the horn through the opposte corners, to bind it as tightly as possible to the wheel.'''

Repeat for the second wheel.

After you think both wheels are securely tied onto the servo horns, mount the servo horns on the servos and screw them down in the centre:

[[File:SimpleBot wheel mounted.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot with both wheels mounted.jpg|400px]]

== "Sled" ==

Unless you want to update your SimpleBot to become a "BalanceBot", it will need something for the chassis to balance against on top of only two wheels.

To keep costs low, the SimpleBot uses a simple cable tie to form this "sled" to balance against. Forming the "sled" is a little tricky to explain, you may want to go and look at a completed SimpleBot in order to understand.

Start by flipping the robot upside down, and push a cable tie through the '''end two''' sled mounting holes as shown, with the "tab" on the inside of the two holes:

[[File:SimpleBot sled cable tie pushed in.jpg|400px]]

Take the outer end of the cable tie and wrap it all the way over the top, through the innermost mounting hole, then back through the adjacent hole. You have to feed the tie through as you go:

[[File:SimpleBot sled cable tie looped.jpg|400px]]

Once you're sure it's looped OK, push the end of the cable tie into the tab. Don't tighten it right up yet! You need to check the height is OK.

[[File:SimpleBot sled cable tie inserted.jpg|400px]]

Flip the robot over, and adjust the cable tie until the robot seems to sit flat on the "sled". Then cut off the end of the tie:

[[File:SimpleBot sled finished.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot sled from the top.jpg|400px]]

== PiLeven ==

Mounting the PiLeven is fairly straightforward, it just presses down onto the Raspberry Pi header as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot with PiLeven mounted.jpg|400px]]

== SimpleBot Shield ==

Mounting the SimpleBot Shield is also straightforward, it drops onto the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot with PiLeven and shield.jpg|400px]]

== Connections ==

Mount the Ultrasonic Rangefinder sensor by dropping it into the 4 pin header at the front of the SimpleBot.

Connect the servo motors by feeding the connectors through the small holes in the base plate, then plug them into the two "motor" headers. Orientation of the servo connections matter - the yellow signal wire faces towards the front of the bot, as shown.

Connect the Wifi adapter by plugging it into a USB port on the front. In the position shown, the antenna doesn't interfere with the Ultrasonic rangefinder (although the rangefinder does appear to detract from the wireless reception a little bit).

[[File:SimpleBot with ultrasonic and servos.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot with ultrasonic and servos from top.jpg|400px]]

== Power Connection ==

The battery pack plugs directly into the DC jack on the back of the PiLeven. Don't plug it in until you've prepared the SD card to boot up the Pi.

[[File:SimpleBot power connection.jpg|400px]]

Removing the DC jack connection will power down the Pi immediately, always try to shut down Linux before doing this.

== All Done ==

Congratulations, you built a SimpleBot!

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

Next step is to prepare the SD card and perform the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]].

SimpleBot Chassis Assembly

2014-12-22T05:03:05Z

Angus Gratton: /* Chassis Parts */

= SimpleBot Chassis Assembly =

Now the SimpleBot shield is built, the next step is to build the SimpleBot itself.

== Chassis Parts ==

The main chassis of the SimpleBot is made from a corrugated plastic called CorFlute, which is cheap and fast to laser cut. The SimpleBot creator, [https://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher], came up with this design.

There are two pieces - a large base plate, and a smaller front bumper plate.

You may have to press out some of the cutouts from the plates, that the laser cutter didn't cut all the way through. A screwdriver or a craft knife will help with any particularly stubborn pieces.

After all the cutouts are removed, the front bumper clips onto the base plate like this:

[[File:SimpleBot chassis base and bumper.jpg|400px]]

The pieces are both symmetrical so there is no "wrong" way to attach them.

== Mount Raspberry Pi ==

After clipping on the bumper, we screw the Raspberry Pi onto the base plate on top of 10mm high standoffs.

'''Take care when mounting the Raspberry Pi as it is sensitive to static discharge. Ground yourself before handling it.'''

The standoffs you'll have are slightly different to the ones shown in this picture. The actual standoffs have a female threaded hole in the bottom and a male threaded extension at the top.

Mount the standoffs onto the four small holes in the base plate:

[[File:SimpleBot standoffs.jpg|400px]]

Use the four short nylon bolts to screw the standoffs into place through the bottom of the plate.

Once the standoffs are firmly mounted, place the Raspberry Pi on top and screw it down using the nylon nuts. The USB ports on the Raspberry Pi should point forward, towards the front bumper.

[[File:SimpleBot Pi mounted.jpg|400px]]

== Continuous Rotation Servo "Motors" ==

The motors for the SimpleBot are continuous rotation hobby servo motors.

Flip the chassis assembly over so the Raspberry Pi is facing down, as the ''motors and battery pack are mounted on the bottom''.

The servos are aligned with square mounting holes, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot servo alignment.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot servo alignment 2.jpg|400px]]

The shaft on each servo should be closest to the front of the SimpleBot, near the bumper.

Each servo is held on via two cable ties. Each cable tie run through the mounting holes, around the servo.

[[File:SimpleBot servo cable ties top view.jpg|400px]]

Here's a close up of one side of the SimpleBot:

[[File:SimpleBot servo cable ties side view.jpg|400px]]

And the other side:

[[File:SimpleBot servo cable ties side view 2.jpg|400px]]

In these photos the cable ties may be a little too tight, as the CorFlute base has bent a little at the side. This doesn't really matter, but they don't have to be this tight!

== Battery Pack ==

The 6 cell battery pack is also mounted using two cable ties to form a "cradle" under the robot base. Unlike the servos, you want the battery "cradle" to be a bit loose so you can pull the pack out to change batteries.

Start by screwing the two leads from the battery pack into the DC jack:

[[File: SimpleBot leads into DC jack.jpg|200px]]

Then insert the Alkaline AA cells in the pack.

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|200px]]

'''IMPORTANT: Once the batteries are installed the DC jack terminals carry 9V, and can potentially damage electronics if they brush across them. Take care not to rest the DC jack against any of the electronics! It should sit out to the side away from the rest of the robot.'''

With the SimpleBot base upside down, place the battery pack between the two servos. The lead should come out towards the rear of the robot, pointing away from the front bumper.

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack on base.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack on base from side.jpg|400px]]

The cable ties to form the "cradle" are inserted into square mounting holes on each side of the battery pack, underneath the Raspberry Pi. This can be a little bit fiddly, it may be helpful to place the battery pack off to the side after sizing it up, and then slide it back in once the cable ties are loosely inserted.

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack cradle.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot battery pack cradle 2.jpg|400px]]

From the top side of the SimpleBot, the battery cradle cable ties will look like this:

[[File:SimpleBot battery cable ties top 1.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot battery cable ties top 2.jpg|400px]]

== Wheels ==

The SimpleBot has two wheels, and each wheel is made up of a sandwich of two pieces of CorFlute. The wheels are held on via fine wire, we're using "wire wrap" wire designed for electronics.

[[File:SimpleBot wheel pieces.jpg|400px]]

Cut two medium length pieces of wire, and run each through opposite holes.

[[File:SimpleBot wheel with wire pieces.jpg|400px]]

Each wheel is made up of two identical pieces of CorFlute.

On top of each wheel, run the wires through the "servo horns" that mount on the servos:

[[File:SimpleBot servo horn wires.jpg|400px]]

The central mounting hole on the horn should line up with the hole in the centre of the wheel:

[[File:SimpleBot servo horn wires from back.jpg|400px]]

Once everything is lined up, tie the wire ends down and cut them off.

[[File:SimpleBot servo horn wires cut off.jpg|400px]]

'''NOT SHOWN: For the "cross" type servo horn, repeat the process on the other two corners to make a stronger binding between the horn and the wheel. On the "straight" type horn that is shown, you probably also want to run some wire across the horn through the opposte corners, to bind it as tightly as possible to the wheel.'''

Repeat for the second wheel.

After you think both wheels are securely tied onto the servo horns, mount the servo horns on the servos and screw them down in the centre:

[[File:SimpleBot wheel mounted.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot with both wheels mounted.jpg|400px]]

== "Sled" ==

Unless you want to update your SimpleBot to become a "BalanceBot", it will need something for the chassis to balance against on top of only two wheels.

To keep costs low, the SimpleBot uses a simple cable tie to form this "sled" to balance against. Forming the "sled" is a little tricky to explain, you may want to go and look at a completed SimpleBot in order to understand.

Start by flipping the robot upside down, and push a cable tie through the '''end two''' sled mounting holes as shown, with the "tab" on the inside of the two holes:

[[File:SimpleBot sled cable tie pushed in.jpg|400px]]

Take the outer end of the cable tie and wrap it all the way over the top, through the innermost mounting hole, then back through the adjacent hole. You have to feed the tie through as you go:

[[File:SimpleBot sled cable tie looped.jpg|400px]]

Once you're sure it's looped OK, push the end of the cable tie into the tab. Don't tighten it right up yet! You need to check the height is OK.

[[File:SimpleBot sled cable tie inserted.jpg|400px]]

Flip the robot over, and adjust the cable tie until the robot seems to sit flat on the "sled". Then cut off the end of the tie:

[[File:SimpleBot sled finished.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot sled from the top.jpg|400px]]

== PiLeven ==

Mounting the PiLeven is fairly straightforward, it just presses down onto the Raspberry Pi header as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot with PiLeven mounted.jpg|400px]]

== SimpleBot Shield ==

Mounting the SimpleBot Shield is also straightforward, it drops onto the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot with PiLeven and shield.jpg|400px]]

== Connections ==

Mount the Ultrasonic Rangefinder sensor by dropping it into the 4 pin header at the front of the SimpleBot.

Connect the servo motors by feeding the connectors through the small holes in the base plate, then plug them into the two "motor" headers. Orientation of the servo connections matter - the yellow signal wire faces towards the front of the bot, as shown.

Connect the Wifi adapter by plugging it into a USB port on the front. In the position shown, the antenna doesn't interfere with the Ultrasonic rangefinder (although the rangefinder does appear to detract from the wireless reception a little bit).

[[File:SimpleBot with ultrasonic and servos.jpg|400px]]

[[File:SimpleBot with ultrasonic and servos from top.jpg|400px]]

== Power Connection ==

The battery pack plugs directly into the DC jack on the back of the PiLeven. Don't plug it in until you've prepared the SD card to boot up the Pi.

[[File:SimpleBot power connection.jpg|400px]]

Removing the DC jack connection will power down the Pi immediately, always try to shut down Linux before doing this.

== All Done ==

Congratulations, you built a SimpleBot!

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

Next step is to prepare the SD card and perform the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]].

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2014-12-22T05:02:38Z

Angus Gratton: /* All Done */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components that need to be soldered on:

[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg|800px]]

* 5x Screw terminal headers
* Male pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4 pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor (hacked up piece of a longer header shown, but the actual parts should be made to size).
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR & resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig". Start by mounting the Freetronics PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

Then cut sections of the male pin headers to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

And place them into the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Mount the SimpleBot Shield on top of the headers:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tack to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins on the bottom.

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly. Place the regulator as shown.

Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them stay in while you solder them, or use Blu-Tack.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (Light Dependent Resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not actual motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from the longer male header strips.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

It's recommended you leave LDR sitting high above the PCB surface, as shown, so you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor.

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-tack to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design, the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a "blue wire" fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.

You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield.

The closest conection is from "AREF" on the LDR to "5V" on the Ultrasonic sensor header.

''(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry.)''

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The last step is to solder on the reset button, and the resistor that forms a [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider]] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the that the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors aren't installed backwards:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2014-12-22T05:02:12Z

Angus Gratton: /* Wire AREF to 5V */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components that need to be soldered on:

[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg|800px]]

* 5x Screw terminal headers
* Male pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4 pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor (hacked up piece of a longer header shown, but the actual parts should be made to size).
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR & resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig". Start by mounting the Freetronics PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

Then cut sections of the male pin headers to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

And place them into the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Mount the SimpleBot Shield on top of the headers:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tack to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins on the bottom.

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly. Place the regulator as shown.

Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them stay in while you solder them, or use Blu-Tack.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (Light Dependent Resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not actual motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from the longer male header strips.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

It's recommended you leave LDR sitting high above the PCB surface, as shown, so you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor.

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-tack to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design, the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a "blue wire" fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.

You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield.

The closest conection is from "AREF" on the LDR to "5V" on the Ultrasonic sensor header.

''(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry.)''

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The last step is to solder on the reset button, and the resistor that forms a [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider]] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the polarity of the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors matches what is shown:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2014-12-22T05:01:37Z

Angus Gratton: /* LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components that need to be soldered on:

[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg|800px]]

* 5x Screw terminal headers
* Male pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4 pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor (hacked up piece of a longer header shown, but the actual parts should be made to size).
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR & resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig". Start by mounting the Freetronics PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

Then cut sections of the male pin headers to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

And place them into the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Mount the SimpleBot Shield on top of the headers:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tack to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins on the bottom.

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly. Place the regulator as shown.

Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them stay in while you solder them, or use Blu-Tack.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (Light Dependent Resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not actual motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from the longer male header strips.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

It's recommended you leave LDR sitting high above the PCB surface, as shown, so you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor.

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-tack to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design, the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a "blue wire" fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.

You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield.

(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry.)

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The last step is to solder on the reset button, and the resistor that forms a [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider]] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the polarity of the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors matches what is shown:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2014-12-22T05:00:58Z

Angus Gratton: /* Regulator & Capacitors */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components that need to be soldered on:

[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg|800px]]

* 5x Screw terminal headers
* Male pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4 pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor (hacked up piece of a longer header shown, but the actual parts should be made to size).
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR & resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig". Start by mounting the Freetronics PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

Then cut sections of the male pin headers to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

And place them into the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Mount the SimpleBot Shield on top of the headers:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tack to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins on the bottom.

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly. Place the regulator as shown.

Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them stay in while you solder them, or use Blu-Tack.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (Light Dependent Resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not actual motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from the longer male header strips.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

If you keep the LDR sitting up above the PCB surface, as shown, then you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor (recommended).

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-tack to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design, the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a "blue wire" fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.

You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield.

(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry.)

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The last step is to solder on the reset button, and the resistor that forms a [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider]] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the polarity of the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors matches what is shown:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2014-12-22T05:00:27Z

Angus Gratton: /* Regulator & Capacitors */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components that need to be soldered on:

[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg|800px]]

* 5x Screw terminal headers
* Male pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4 pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor (hacked up piece of a longer header shown, but the actual parts should be made to size).
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR & resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig". Start by mounting the Freetronics PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

Then cut sections of the male pin headers to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

And place them into the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Mount the SimpleBot Shield on top of the headers:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tack to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins on the bottom.

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly. Place the regulator as shown.

Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are mirrored.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them easier to solder, or use Blu-Tack.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (Light Dependent Resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not actual motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from the longer male header strips.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

If you keep the LDR sitting up above the PCB surface, as shown, then you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor (recommended).

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-tack to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design, the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a "blue wire" fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.

You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield.

(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry.)

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The last step is to solder on the reset button, and the resistor that forms a [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider]] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the polarity of the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors matches what is shown:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2014-12-22T04:59:29Z

Angus Gratton: /* SimpleBot Shield Assembly */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components that need to be soldered on:

[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg|800px]]

* 5x Screw terminal headers
* Male pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4 pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor (hacked up piece of a longer header shown, but the actual parts should be made to size).
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR & resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig". Start by mounting the Freetronics PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

Then cut sections of the male pin headers to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

And place them into the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Mount the SimpleBot Shield on top of the headers:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tack to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins on the bottom.

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly. Place the regulator as shown. The electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are mirrored.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them easier to solder, or use Blu-Tack.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (Light Dependent Resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not actual motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from the longer male header strips.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

If you keep the LDR sitting up above the PCB surface, as shown, then you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor (recommended).

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-tack to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design, the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a "blue wire" fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.

You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield.

(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry.)

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The last step is to solder on the reset button, and the resistor that forms a [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider]] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the polarity of the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors matches what is shown:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield

2014-12-22T04:59:02Z

Angus Gratton: /* Soldering all pads */

= Surface Mount Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has eight surface mount components, four WS2812B RGB LEDs and four decoupling capacitors. Normally these are pre-soldered but competent solderers looking for a challenge can solder them on the day.

These devices are usually soldered using solder paste and hot air or infrared heating, but they can be soldered using a common soldering iron as well.

'''These steps are completely optional, feel free to get a presoldered shield instead. If you plan to do the SMD assembly please bring some extra tools (described below)'''.

== Parts to Solder ==

As well as the bare SimpleBot Shield PCB, you will need 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs (the large square packages) and 4 "0603" sized 100nF capacitors (the small rectangular packages).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Components.jpg|600px]]

== Tools Required ==

As well as the components, you will need some special tools for SMD assembly:

* Tweezers for placing components
* Liquid solder flux (flux pens are the easiest form of these).
* Some kind of magnification for checking your work (depending on your eyesight you might need something you can solder under, or just a magnifier you can use afterwards).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Componenents plus tools.jpg|400px]]

== Soldering Technique ==

The soldering technique we're going to use is called tack-then-reflow. This means we apply a tiny bit of solder to one pin of each package to hold it in place, then "reflow" solder onto the rest of the pads.

We'll go over the steps of the technique further on, but if you want a preview then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE&t=6m50s Dave Jones' eevblog covers the technique well in this video].

== IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation ==

The WS2812Bs have 4 pads that need to be soldered down, numbered 1 through 4. There is a "pin 1" marking on the board. However, '''the marking on the WS2812B package is not pin 1'''. It is pin 3.

[[File:WS2812B Markings.png]]

So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

== Sequence ==

I recommend doing an LED and a capacitor at a time, moving from corner to corner.

When each corner is done it will look something like this:

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

== Tacking Down ==

First we "tack" a corner of each component so it can't move. Start by flowing a small amount of solder onto just one bare pad of the capacitor and one pad of the LED, as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg|400px]]

Don't apply too much solder, use solder wick to take some off if necessary.

In the picture above I've applied solder to two pads on the left side, because I'm left handed. You can use pads on the right side if you prefer.

Next, use tweezers to place the capacitor on top of the pads. Hold the capacitor in place with the tweezers in one hand, and use your other hand to bring the soldering iron in to touch the pad where you already placed some solder. As the pad heats the solder will "reflow" up from the pad onto the end of the capacitor:

[[File:SimpleBot Capacitor One End Soldered.jpg|400px]]

Once the solder cools it "tacks" the capacitor down to the board, so it can't move. Try to bump it with your tweezers, it should stay put.

You may note that in the photo above the solder joint looks particularly poor, it's a "cold" joint and not a lot of solder has flowed up onto the capacitor. This doesn't matter too much at this stage, as long as the capacitor is held in place. We can improve the solder joint later on.

Repeat the "tacking" process with the LED - place the LED on top of its pads, hold it in place with the tweezers in one hand while you heat the pad you presoldered and it solders on to tack it in place. '''Remember to check the LED orientation before you start soldering!'''

[[File:SimpleBot LED one pad soldered.jpg|400px]]

If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

'''When soldering the LED take special care not to apply too much heat - the green element of the WS2812B is quite heat sensitive and can be damaged if too much heat flows into the LED. You want to remove the soldering iron shortly after the solder becomes molten.'''

== Soldering all pads ==

Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

When soldering the LED, most of the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the PCB pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

In the picture above, there's actually a bit too much solder on most of the pads - but it doesn't matter.

== Solder remaining corners ==

Once the first two components are soldered down, repeat for each corner of the shield.

Once the SMD soldering is done, move on to the [[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]] step.

Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield

2014-12-22T04:58:43Z

Angus Gratton: /* Soldering all pads */

= Surface Mount Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has eight surface mount components, four WS2812B RGB LEDs and four decoupling capacitors. Normally these are pre-soldered but competent solderers looking for a challenge can solder them on the day.

These devices are usually soldered using solder paste and hot air or infrared heating, but they can be soldered using a common soldering iron as well.

'''These steps are completely optional, feel free to get a presoldered shield instead. If you plan to do the SMD assembly please bring some extra tools (described below)'''.

== Parts to Solder ==

As well as the bare SimpleBot Shield PCB, you will need 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs (the large square packages) and 4 "0603" sized 100nF capacitors (the small rectangular packages).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Components.jpg|600px]]

== Tools Required ==

As well as the components, you will need some special tools for SMD assembly:

* Tweezers for placing components
* Liquid solder flux (flux pens are the easiest form of these).
* Some kind of magnification for checking your work (depending on your eyesight you might need something you can solder under, or just a magnifier you can use afterwards).

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Componenents plus tools.jpg|400px]]

== Soldering Technique ==

The soldering technique we're going to use is called tack-then-reflow. This means we apply a tiny bit of solder to one pin of each package to hold it in place, then "reflow" solder onto the rest of the pads.

We'll go over the steps of the technique further on, but if you want a preview then [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE&t=6m50s Dave Jones' eevblog covers the technique well in this video].

== IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation ==

The WS2812Bs have 4 pads that need to be soldered down, numbered 1 through 4. There is a "pin 1" marking on the board. However, '''the marking on the WS2812B package is not pin 1'''. It is pin 3.

[[File:WS2812B Markings.png]]

So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

== Sequence ==

I recommend doing an LED and a capacitor at a time, moving from corner to corner.

When each corner is done it will look something like this:

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

== Tacking Down ==

First we "tack" a corner of each component so it can't move. Start by flowing a small amount of solder onto just one bare pad of the capacitor and one pad of the LED, as shown:

[[File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg|400px]]

Don't apply too much solder, use solder wick to take some off if necessary.

In the picture above I've applied solder to two pads on the left side, because I'm left handed. You can use pads on the right side if you prefer.

Next, use tweezers to place the capacitor on top of the pads. Hold the capacitor in place with the tweezers in one hand, and use your other hand to bring the soldering iron in to touch the pad where you already placed some solder. As the pad heats the solder will "reflow" up from the pad onto the end of the capacitor:

[[File:SimpleBot Capacitor One End Soldered.jpg|400px]]

Once the solder cools it "tacks" the capacitor down to the board, so it can't move. Try to bump it with your tweezers, it should stay put.

You may note that in the photo above the solder joint looks particularly poor, it's a "cold" joint and not a lot of solder has flowed up onto the capacitor. This doesn't matter too much at this stage, as long as the capacitor is held in place. We can improve the solder joint later on.

Repeat the "tacking" process with the LED - place the LED on top of its pads, hold it in place with the tweezers in one hand while you heat the pad you presoldered and it solders on to tack it in place. '''Remember to check the LED orientation before you start soldering!'''

[[File:SimpleBot LED one pad soldered.jpg|400px]]

If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

'''When soldering the LED take special care not to apply too much heat - the green element of the WS2812B is quite heat sensitive and can be damaged if too much heat flows into the LED. You want to remove the soldering iron shortly after the solder becomes molten.'''

== Soldering all pads ==

Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

When soldering the LED, mosto f the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the pad on the PCB as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

[[File:SimpleBot SMD Soldered corner.jpg|400px]]

In the picture above, there's actually a bit too much solder on most of the pads - but it doesn't matter.

== Solder remaining corners ==

Once the first two components are soldered down, repeat for each corner of the shield.

Once the SMD soldering is done, move on to the [[SimpleBot Shield Assembly]] step.

File:WS2812B Markings.png

2014-12-22T04:57:01Z

Angus Gratton:

SimpleBot Technical Overview

2014-12-22T04:53:14Z

Angus Gratton: /* SimpleBot Shield */

This page aims to give an overview of the technical architecture of the SimpleBot.

* For a brief summary of the SimpleBot, see the [[SimpleBot]] page instead.
* For a discussion of setting up SimpleBot's software, see the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]] page.

== History ==

The SimpleBot we are building is actually the "SimpleBot Pi", the fourth revision of the [http://github.com/ajfisher/simplebot SimpleBot designs] created by [http://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher].

This evolution of SimpleBot has also had input from [http://twitter.com/projectgus Angus Gratton], who designed the PiLeven and SimpleBot shield, and other members of the [http://hackmelbourne.org Melbourne Hackerspace] - including [http://twitter.com/alecthegeek Alec Clews] (software setup), [http://twitter.com/geekscape Andy Gelme], and of course [http://twitter.com/jonoxer Jon Oxer].

== Main Components ==

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot has 3 main components, stacked up as follows:

* Raspberry Pi Model B+ runs Linux and can run any high-level programming language. Connects to Wifi via the attached adapter. Communicates with the PiLeven via serial port /dev/ttyS99. Comes with the [http://nodebots.io NodeBots] [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five]] library installed.

* [http://freetronics.com/pileven Freetronics PiLeven] is an Arduino-compatible board that mounts on top of the Raspberry Pi. It can be loaded with the [http://firmata.org/ Firmata] firmware for direct control from the Pi.

* The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides an easy breakout for sensors connected to the PiLeven.

=== Raspberry Pi ===

The Raspberry Pi is set up to run the node.js [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five Johnny Five library], which provides easy access to the hardware connected to the PiLeven (and abstracted via the Firmata framework).

Of course you don't have to use node.js or Johnny Five - you can program the PiLeven directly as if it was an Arduino Uno, or you can use any of the dozens of Firmata language bindings with your favourite programming language.

As the Arduino IDE can be a little unwieldy to use remotely on the Raspberry Pi, we have also installed a tool called [http://inotool.org/ inotool] that makes it simple to build and upload Arduino sketches from the command line. Check the inotool documentation for more details.

=== PiLeven ===

[[File:PiLeven.jpg|400px]]

The [http://freetronics.com/pileven PiLeven] is a 100% Arduino Uno compatible board in a Raspberry Pi form factor. It connects using the internal Raspberry Pi serial port, but can be programmed identically to an Arduino Uno connected via USB.

PiLeven also incorporates a high-efficiency DC/DC buck converter which allows the Pi to be powered from voltage sources higher than 5V, such as the 9V battery pack on the SimpleBot.

For more information on PiLeven, see the [http://www.freetronics.com.au/pages/pileven-getting-started-guide PiLeven Getting Started Guide] and also the [https://github.com/freetronics/PiLeven/wiki/Direct-Control-with-Firmata wiki article on using PiLeven with Firmata]. Note that the Raspberry Pi software for PiLeven is already installed on the image we supply at the MiniConf.

=== SimpleBot Shield ===

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides easy connections for the following hardware:

* 2 specially located "motor" hobby servo pinouts, connected to pins D9 & D10.
* 4 additional hobby servo pinouts, pins D2,D3,D5,D6.
* Dedicated 6V linear regulator for servo power (hobby servos usually run better on 6V than 5V).
* Ultrasonic Rangefinder Sensor connected to pin D8.
* LDR connected as voltage divider to pin A0, provides voltage indication of ambient light level. Can be bent directionally to provide a directional light sensor.
* 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs, aka "NeoPixels". Data pin is pin D6, LEDs are daisy chained from there. Can be used for ambient effects, feedback, or as signals which are received via the light sensor.
* 5 Analog input pins (also usable as digital) broken out on screw terminals, along with power and ground.
* Breakout for [http://freetronics.com/imu9]Freetronics IMU9 module] (not supplied).
* "Serial" 4 pin breakout for connecting other devices.

== Battery Options ==

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|100px]]

The standard power source for the SimpleBot is 6x AA alkaline cells for a nominal 9V battery pack. In testing a SimpleBot has run actively (driving motors in a sequence) for over 4 hours before batteries were depleted, with wifi enabled.

Unfortunately we've found that rechargeable NiMH AA cells were not able to supply enough current to boot the Raspberry Pi, the initial power-on surge caused an execessive voltage drop. If you'd like to use rechargeable AAs, we suggest sourcing a 8x AA "12V" two-row battery pack, like a wider version of the 9V pack. This will fit in the space under the SimpleBot chassis, and gives enough capacity for rechargeable batteries.

It is also possible to use a 7.2V lithium cell as a battery for the SimpleBot.

SimpleBot Technical Overview

2014-12-22T04:52:30Z

Angus Gratton: /* History */

This page aims to give an overview of the technical architecture of the SimpleBot.

* For a brief summary of the SimpleBot, see the [[SimpleBot]] page instead.
* For a discussion of setting up SimpleBot's software, see the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]] page.

== History ==

The SimpleBot we are building is actually the "SimpleBot Pi", the fourth revision of the [http://github.com/ajfisher/simplebot SimpleBot designs] created by [http://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher].

This evolution of SimpleBot has also had input from [http://twitter.com/projectgus Angus Gratton], who designed the PiLeven and SimpleBot shield, and other members of the [http://hackmelbourne.org Melbourne Hackerspace] - including [http://twitter.com/alecthegeek Alec Clews] (software setup), [http://twitter.com/geekscape Andy Gelme], and of course [http://twitter.com/jonoxer Jon Oxer].

== Main Components ==

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot has 3 main components, stacked up as follows:

* Raspberry Pi Model B+ runs Linux and can run any high-level programming language. Connects to Wifi via the attached adapter. Communicates with the PiLeven via serial port /dev/ttyS99. Comes with the [http://nodebots.io NodeBots] [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five]] library installed.

* [http://freetronics.com/pileven Freetronics PiLeven] is an Arduino-compatible board that mounts on top of the Raspberry Pi. It can be loaded with the [http://firmata.org/ Firmata] firmware for direct control from the Pi.

* The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides an easy breakout for sensors connected to the PiLeven.

=== Raspberry Pi ===

The Raspberry Pi is set up to run the node.js [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five Johnny Five library], which provides easy access to the hardware connected to the PiLeven (and abstracted via the Firmata framework).

Of course you don't have to use node.js or Johnny Five - you can program the PiLeven directly as if it was an Arduino Uno, or you can use any of the dozens of Firmata language bindings with your favourite programming language.

As the Arduino IDE can be a little unwieldy to use remotely on the Raspberry Pi, we have also installed a tool called [http://inotool.org/ inotool] that makes it simple to build and upload Arduino sketches from the command line. Check the inotool documentation for more details.

=== PiLeven ===

[[File:PiLeven.jpg|400px]]

The [http://freetronics.com/pileven PiLeven] is a 100% Arduino Uno compatible board in a Raspberry Pi form factor. It connects using the internal Raspberry Pi serial port, but can be programmed identically to an Arduino Uno connected via USB.

PiLeven also incorporates a high-efficiency DC/DC buck converter which allows the Pi to be powered from voltage sources higher than 5V, such as the 9V battery pack on the SimpleBot.

For more information on PiLeven, see the [http://www.freetronics.com.au/pages/pileven-getting-started-guide PiLeven Getting Started Guide] and also the [https://github.com/freetronics/PiLeven/wiki/Direct-Control-with-Firmata wiki article on using PiLeven with Firmata]. Note that the Raspberry Pi software for PiLeven is already installed on the image we supply at the MiniConf.

=== SimpleBot Shield ===

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides easy connections for the following hardware:

* 2 marked "motor" hobby servos connected to pins D9 & D10.
* 4 additional hobby servo pinouts, pins D2,D3,D5,D6.
* Dedicated 6V linear regulator for servos (hobby servos usually run better on 6V than 5V).
* Ultrasonic Rangefinder Sensor connected to pin D8.
* LDR connected as voltage divider to pin A0, provides voltage indication of ambient light level. Can be bent directionally to provide a directional light sensor.
* 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs, aka "NeoPixels". Data pin is pin D6, LEDs are daisy chained from there. Can be used for ambient effects, feedback, or as signals which are received via the light sensor.
* 5 Analog input pins (also usable as digital) broken out on screw terminals, along with power and ground.
* Breakout for [http://freetronics.com/imu9]Freetronics IMU9 module] (not supplied).
* "Serial" 4 pin breakout for connecting other devices.

== Battery Options ==

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|100px]]

The standard power source for the SimpleBot is 6x AA alkaline cells for a nominal 9V battery pack. In testing a SimpleBot has run actively (driving motors in a sequence) for over 4 hours before batteries were depleted, with wifi enabled.

Unfortunately we've found that rechargeable NiMH AA cells were not able to supply enough current to boot the Raspberry Pi, the initial power-on surge caused an execessive voltage drop. If you'd like to use rechargeable AAs, we suggest sourcing a 8x AA "12V" two-row battery pack, like a wider version of the 9V pack. This will fit in the space under the SimpleBot chassis, and gives enough capacity for rechargeable batteries.

It is also possible to use a 7.2V lithium cell as a battery for the SimpleBot.

SimpleBot Technical Overview

2014-12-22T04:51:55Z

Angus Gratton:

This page aims to give an overview of the technical architecture of the SimpleBot.

* For a brief summary of the SimpleBot, see the [[SimpleBot]] page instead.
* For a discussion of setting up SimpleBot's software, see the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]] page.

== History ==

The SimpleBot we are building is actually the "SimpleBot Pi", the fourth revision of the [http://github.com/ajfisher/simplebot SimpleBot designs] created by [http://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher].

This evolution of SimpleBot has also had input from [http://twitter.com/projectgus Angus Gratton], who designed the PiLeven and SimpleBot shield, and other members of the [http://hackmelbourne.org Melbourne Hackerspace] - including Alec Clews (software setup), Andy Gelme, and of course Jon Oxer.

== Main Components ==

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot has 3 main components, stacked up as follows:

* Raspberry Pi Model B+ runs Linux and can run any high-level programming language. Connects to Wifi via the attached adapter. Communicates with the PiLeven via serial port /dev/ttyS99. Comes with the [http://nodebots.io NodeBots] [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five]] library installed.

* [http://freetronics.com/pileven Freetronics PiLeven] is an Arduino-compatible board that mounts on top of the Raspberry Pi. It can be loaded with the [http://firmata.org/ Firmata] firmware for direct control from the Pi.

* The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides an easy breakout for sensors connected to the PiLeven.

=== Raspberry Pi ===

The Raspberry Pi is set up to run the node.js [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five Johnny Five library], which provides easy access to the hardware connected to the PiLeven (and abstracted via the Firmata framework).

Of course you don't have to use node.js or Johnny Five - you can program the PiLeven directly as if it was an Arduino Uno, or you can use any of the dozens of Firmata language bindings with your favourite programming language.

As the Arduino IDE can be a little unwieldy to use remotely on the Raspberry Pi, we have also installed a tool called [http://inotool.org/ inotool] that makes it simple to build and upload Arduino sketches from the command line. Check the inotool documentation for more details.

=== PiLeven ===

[[File:PiLeven.jpg|400px]]

The [http://freetronics.com/pileven PiLeven] is a 100% Arduino Uno compatible board in a Raspberry Pi form factor. It connects using the internal Raspberry Pi serial port, but can be programmed identically to an Arduino Uno connected via USB.

PiLeven also incorporates a high-efficiency DC/DC buck converter which allows the Pi to be powered from voltage sources higher than 5V, such as the 9V battery pack on the SimpleBot.

For more information on PiLeven, see the [http://www.freetronics.com.au/pages/pileven-getting-started-guide PiLeven Getting Started Guide] and also the [https://github.com/freetronics/PiLeven/wiki/Direct-Control-with-Firmata wiki article on using PiLeven with Firmata]. Note that the Raspberry Pi software for PiLeven is already installed on the image we supply at the MiniConf.

=== SimpleBot Shield ===

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides easy connections for the following hardware:

* 2 marked "motor" hobby servos connected to pins D9 & D10.
* 4 additional hobby servo pinouts, pins D2,D3,D5,D6.
* Dedicated 6V linear regulator for servos (hobby servos usually run better on 6V than 5V).
* Ultrasonic Rangefinder Sensor connected to pin D8.
* LDR connected as voltage divider to pin A0, provides voltage indication of ambient light level. Can be bent directionally to provide a directional light sensor.
* 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs, aka "NeoPixels". Data pin is pin D6, LEDs are daisy chained from there. Can be used for ambient effects, feedback, or as signals which are received via the light sensor.
* 5 Analog input pins (also usable as digital) broken out on screw terminals, along with power and ground.
* Breakout for [http://freetronics.com/imu9]Freetronics IMU9 module] (not supplied).
* "Serial" 4 pin breakout for connecting other devices.

== Battery Options ==

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|100px]]

The standard power source for the SimpleBot is 6x AA alkaline cells for a nominal 9V battery pack. In testing a SimpleBot has run actively (driving motors in a sequence) for over 4 hours before batteries were depleted, with wifi enabled.

Unfortunately we've found that rechargeable NiMH AA cells were not able to supply enough current to boot the Raspberry Pi, the initial power-on surge caused an execessive voltage drop. If you'd like to use rechargeable AAs, we suggest sourcing a 8x AA "12V" two-row battery pack, like a wider version of the 9V pack. This will fit in the space under the SimpleBot chassis, and gives enough capacity for rechargeable batteries.

It is also possible to use a 7.2V lithium cell as a battery for the SimpleBot.

SimpleBot Technical Overview

2014-12-22T04:51:19Z

Angus Gratton: /* PiLeven */

This page aims to give an overview of the technical architecture of the SimpleBot.

* For a brief summary of the SimpleBot, see the [[SimpleBot]] page instead.
* For a discussion of setting up SimpleBot's software, see the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]] page.

== Main Components ==

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot has 3 main components, stacked up as follows:

* Raspberry Pi Model B+ runs Linux and can run any high-level programming language. Connects to Wifi via the attached adapter. Communicates with the PiLeven via serial port /dev/ttyS99. Comes with the [http://nodebots.io NodeBots] [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five]] library installed.

* [http://freetronics.com/pileven Freetronics PiLeven] is an Arduino-compatible board that mounts on top of the Raspberry Pi. It can be loaded with the [http://firmata.org/ Firmata] firmware for direct control from the Pi.

* The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides an easy breakout for sensors connected to the PiLeven.

== History ==

The SimpleBot we are building is actually the "SimpleBot Pi", the fourth revision of the [http://github.com/ajfisher/simplebot SimpleBot designs] created by [http://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher].

This evolution of SimpleBot has also had input from [http://twitter.com/projectgus Angus Gratton], who designed the PiLeven and SimpleBot shield, and other members of the [http://hackmelbourne.org Melbourne Hackerspace] - including Alec Clews (software setup), Andy Gelme, and of course Jon Oxer.

== Raspberry Pi ==

The Raspberry Pi is set up to run the node.js [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five Johnny Five library], which provides easy access to the hardware connected to the PiLeven (and abstracted via the Firmata framework).

Of course you don't have to use node.js or Johnny Five - you can program the PiLeven directly as if it was an Arduino Uno, or you can use any of the dozens of Firmata language bindings with your favourite programming language.

As the Arduino IDE can be a little unwieldy to use remotely on the Raspberry Pi, we have also installed a tool called [http://inotool.org/ inotool] that makes it simple to build and upload Arduino sketches from the command line. Check the inotool documentation for more details.

== PiLeven ==

[[File:PiLeven.jpg|400px]]

The [http://freetronics.com/pileven PiLeven] is a 100% Arduino Uno compatible board in a Raspberry Pi form factor. It connects using the internal Raspberry Pi serial port, but can be programmed identically to an Arduino Uno connected via USB.

PiLeven also incorporates a high-efficiency DC/DC buck converter which allows the Pi to be powered from voltage sources higher than 5V, such as the 9V battery pack on the SimpleBot.

For more information on PiLeven, see the [http://www.freetronics.com.au/pages/pileven-getting-started-guide PiLeven Getting Started Guide] and also the [https://github.com/freetronics/PiLeven/wiki/Direct-Control-with-Firmata wiki article on using PiLeven with Firmata]. Note that the Raspberry Pi software for PiLeven is already installed on the image we supply at the MiniConf.

== SimpleBot Shield ==

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides easy connections for the following hardware:

* 2 marked "motor" hobby servos connected to pins D9 & D10.
* 4 additional hobby servo pinouts, pins D2,D3,D5,D6.
* Dedicated 6V linear regulator for servos (hobby servos usually run better on 6V than 5V).
* Ultrasonic Rangefinder Sensor connected to pin D8.
* LDR connected as voltage divider to pin A0, provides voltage indication of ambient light level. Can be bent directionally to provide a directional light sensor.
* 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs, aka "NeoPixels". Data pin is pin D6, LEDs are daisy chained from there. Can be used for ambient effects, feedback, or as signals which are received via the light sensor.
* 5 Analog input pins (also usable as digital) broken out on screw terminals, along with power and ground.
* Breakout for [http://freetronics.com/imu9]Freetronics IMU9 module] (not supplied).
* "Serial" 4 pin breakout for connecting other devices.

== Power Source ==

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|100px]]

The standard power source for the SimpleBot is 6x AA alkaline cells for a nominal 9V battery pack. In testing a SimpleBot has run actively (driving motors in a sequence) for over 4 hours before batteries were depleted, with wifi enabled.

Unfortunately we've found that rechargeable NiMH AA cells were not able to supply enough current to boot the Raspberry Pi, the initial power-on surge caused an execessive voltage drop. If you'd like to use rechargeable AAs, we suggest sourcing a 8x AA "12V" two-row battery pack, like a wider version of the 9V pack. This will fit in the space under the SimpleBot chassis, and gives enough capacity for rechargeable batteries.

It is also possible to use a 7.2V lithium cell as a battery for the SimpleBot.

File:PiLeven.jpg

2014-12-22T04:51:05Z

Angus Gratton:

File:SimpleBot Solder on pads.jpg

2014-12-22T04:50:37Z

Angus Gratton:

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

2014-12-22T04:47:53Z

Angus Gratton: /* LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers */

= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components that need to be soldered on:

[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg|400px]]

* 5x Screw terminal headers
* Male pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
* 4 pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor (hacked up piece of a longer header shown, but the actual parts should be made to size).
* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
* LDR & resistor for ambient light sensing.
* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig". Start by mounting the Freetronics PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg|400px]]

Then cut sections of the male pin headers to match each header on the PiLeven:

* 2x 8-pin headers
* 1x 10-pin header
* 1x 6-pin header

And place them into the PiLeven as shown:

[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg|400px]]

Mount the SimpleBot Shield on top of the headers:

[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg|400px]]

Then solder them in place:

[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg|400px]]

After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven.

== Screw Terminals ==

The next items to solder are the screw terminals. Each individual 2-pin screw terminal can slot together into a longer unit, like this:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals slotting together.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot shield has one side with 6 pins (3 units), and one side with 4 pins (2 units).

Slot the terminals together and place them on top of the shield:

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg|400px]]

Then use some Blu-Tack to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins on the bottom.

[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Regulator & Capacitors ==

Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg|400px]]

All of these components need to be oriented correctly. Place the regulator as shown. The electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are mirrored.

You can bend the pins on the capacitors and the regulator to make them easier to solder, or use Blu-Tack.

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg|400px]]

After they are soldered you can cut the leads off:

[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg|400px]]

== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

Next step is the LDR (Light Dependent Resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not actual motors).

For the 3 pin headers, cut them from the longer male header strips.

Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header.jpg|400px]]

If you keep the LDR sitting up above the PCB surface, as shown, then you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor (recommended).

The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-tack to hold items in place when flipping the board.

[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg|400px]]

== Wire AREF to 5V ==

There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design, the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

To fix this problem, solder a "blue wire" fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.

You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield.

(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry.)

== Reset Button & Resistor ==

The last step is to solder on the reset button, and the resistor that forms a [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider]] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

[[File:Reset and resistor soldered.jpg|400px]]

== All Done ==

All done! As a final check, look over the shield for any solder bridges and also double-check the polarity of the regulator and the electrolytic capacitors matches what is shown:

[[File:SimpleBot shield assembled.jpg|400px]]

Here's a photo showing how the SimpleBot shield mounts onto the PiLeven:

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].

SimpleBot Technical Overview

2014-12-22T04:45:54Z

Angus Gratton: /* Main Components */

This page aims to give an overview of the technical architecture of the SimpleBot.

* For a brief summary of the SimpleBot, see the [[SimpleBot]] page instead.
* For a discussion of setting up SimpleBot's software, see the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]] page.

== Main Components ==

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot has 3 main components, stacked up as follows:

* Raspberry Pi Model B+ runs Linux and can run any high-level programming language. Connects to Wifi via the attached adapter. Communicates with the PiLeven via serial port /dev/ttyS99. Comes with the [http://nodebots.io NodeBots] [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five]] library installed.

* [http://freetronics.com/pileven Freetronics PiLeven] is an Arduino-compatible board that mounts on top of the Raspberry Pi. It can be loaded with the [http://firmata.org/ Firmata] firmware for direct control from the Pi.

* The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides an easy breakout for sensors connected to the PiLeven.

== History ==

The SimpleBot we are building is actually the "SimpleBot Pi", the fourth revision of the [http://github.com/ajfisher/simplebot SimpleBot designs] created by [http://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher].

This evolution of SimpleBot has also had input from [http://twitter.com/projectgus Angus Gratton], who designed the PiLeven and SimpleBot shield, and other members of the [http://hackmelbourne.org Melbourne Hackerspace] - including Alec Clews (software setup), Andy Gelme, and of course Jon Oxer.

== Raspberry Pi ==

The Raspberry Pi is set up to run the node.js [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five Johnny Five library], which provides easy access to the hardware connected to the PiLeven (and abstracted via the Firmata framework).

Of course you don't have to use node.js or Johnny Five - you can program the PiLeven directly as if it was an Arduino Uno, or you can use any of the dozens of Firmata language bindings with your favourite programming language.

As the Arduino IDE can be a little unwieldy to use remotely on the Raspberry Pi, we have also installed a tool called [http://inotool.org/ inotool] that makes it simple to build and upload Arduino sketches from the command line. Check the inotool documentation for more details.

== PiLeven ==

[[File:PiLeven.jpg]]

The [http://freetronics.com/pileven PiLeven] is a 100% Arduino Uno compatible board in a Raspberry Pi form factor. It connects using the internal Raspberry Pi serial port, but can be programmed identically to an Arduino Uno connected via USB.

PiLeven also incorporates a high-efficiency DC/DC buck converter which allows the Pi to be powered from voltage sources higher than 5V, such as the 9V battery pack on the SimpleBot.

For more information on PiLeven, see the [http://www.freetronics.com.au/pages/pileven-getting-started-guide PiLeven Getting Started Guide] and also the [https://github.com/freetronics/PiLeven/wiki/Direct-Control-with-Firmata wiki article on using PiLeven with Firmata]. Note that the Raspberry Pi software for PiLeven is already installed on the image we supply at the MiniConf.

== SimpleBot Shield ==

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides easy connections for the following hardware:

* 2 marked "motor" hobby servos connected to pins D9 & D10.
* 4 additional hobby servo pinouts, pins D2,D3,D5,D6.
* Dedicated 6V linear regulator for servos (hobby servos usually run better on 6V than 5V).
* Ultrasonic Rangefinder Sensor connected to pin D8.
* LDR connected as voltage divider to pin A0, provides voltage indication of ambient light level. Can be bent directionally to provide a directional light sensor.
* 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs, aka "NeoPixels". Data pin is pin D6, LEDs are daisy chained from there. Can be used for ambient effects, feedback, or as signals which are received via the light sensor.
* 5 Analog input pins (also usable as digital) broken out on screw terminals, along with power and ground.
* Breakout for [http://freetronics.com/imu9]Freetronics IMU9 module] (not supplied).
* "Serial" 4 pin breakout for connecting other devices.

== Power Source ==

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|100px]]

The standard power source for the SimpleBot is 6x AA alkaline cells for a nominal 9V battery pack. In testing a SimpleBot has run actively (driving motors in a sequence) for over 4 hours before batteries were depleted, with wifi enabled.

Unfortunately we've found that rechargeable NiMH AA cells were not able to supply enough current to boot the Raspberry Pi, the initial power-on surge caused an execessive voltage drop. If you'd like to use rechargeable AAs, we suggest sourcing a 8x AA "12V" two-row battery pack, like a wider version of the 9V pack. This will fit in the space under the SimpleBot chassis, and gives enough capacity for rechargeable batteries.

It is also possible to use a 7.2V lithium cell as a battery for the SimpleBot.

SimpleBot Technical Overview

2014-12-22T04:45:05Z

Angus Gratton: /* Main Components */

This page aims to give an overview of the technical architecture of the SimpleBot.

* For a brief summary of the SimpleBot, see the [[SimpleBot]] page instead.
* For a discussion of setting up SimpleBot's software, see the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]] page.

== Main Components ==

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot has 3 main components, stacked up as follows:

* Raspberry Pi Model B+ runs Linux and can run any high-level programming language. Connects to Wifi via the attached adapter. Communicates with the PiLeven via serial port /dev/ttyS99.

* [http://freetronics.com/pileven Freetronics PiLeven] is an Arduino-compatible board that mounts on top of the Raspberry Pi. To use the PiLeven with the [http://nodebots.io NodeBots] [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five]] library or a similar high-level control library it is usually loaded with the [http://firmata.org/ Firmata] firmware.

* The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides an easy breakout for sensors connected to the PiLeven.

== History ==

The SimpleBot we are building is actually the "SimpleBot Pi", the fourth revision of the [http://github.com/ajfisher/simplebot SimpleBot designs] created by [http://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher].

This evolution of SimpleBot has also had input from [http://twitter.com/projectgus Angus Gratton], who designed the PiLeven and SimpleBot shield, and other members of the [http://hackmelbourne.org Melbourne Hackerspace] - including Alec Clews (software setup), Andy Gelme, and of course Jon Oxer.

== Raspberry Pi ==

The Raspberry Pi is set up to run the node.js [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five Johnny Five library], which provides easy access to the hardware connected to the PiLeven (and abstracted via the Firmata framework).

Of course you don't have to use node.js or Johnny Five - you can program the PiLeven directly as if it was an Arduino Uno, or you can use any of the dozens of Firmata language bindings with your favourite programming language.

As the Arduino IDE can be a little unwieldy to use remotely on the Raspberry Pi, we have also installed a tool called [http://inotool.org/ inotool] that makes it simple to build and upload Arduino sketches from the command line. Check the inotool documentation for more details.

== PiLeven ==

[[File:PiLeven.jpg]]

The [http://freetronics.com/pileven PiLeven] is a 100% Arduino Uno compatible board in a Raspberry Pi form factor. It connects using the internal Raspberry Pi serial port, but can be programmed identically to an Arduino Uno connected via USB.

PiLeven also incorporates a high-efficiency DC/DC buck converter which allows the Pi to be powered from voltage sources higher than 5V, such as the 9V battery pack on the SimpleBot.

For more information on PiLeven, see the [http://www.freetronics.com.au/pages/pileven-getting-started-guide PiLeven Getting Started Guide] and also the [https://github.com/freetronics/PiLeven/wiki/Direct-Control-with-Firmata wiki article on using PiLeven with Firmata]. Note that the Raspberry Pi software for PiLeven is already installed on the image we supply at the MiniConf.

== SimpleBot Shield ==

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides easy connections for the following hardware:

* 2 marked "motor" hobby servos connected to pins D9 & D10.
* 4 additional hobby servo pinouts, pins D2,D3,D5,D6.
* Dedicated 6V linear regulator for servos (hobby servos usually run better on 6V than 5V).
* Ultrasonic Rangefinder Sensor connected to pin D8.
* LDR connected as voltage divider to pin A0, provides voltage indication of ambient light level. Can be bent directionally to provide a directional light sensor.
* 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs, aka "NeoPixels". Data pin is pin D6, LEDs are daisy chained from there. Can be used for ambient effects, feedback, or as signals which are received via the light sensor.
* 5 Analog input pins (also usable as digital) broken out on screw terminals, along with power and ground.
* Breakout for [http://freetronics.com/imu9]Freetronics IMU9 module] (not supplied).
* "Serial" 4 pin breakout for connecting other devices.

== Power Source ==

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|100px]]

The standard power source for the SimpleBot is 6x AA alkaline cells for a nominal 9V battery pack. In testing a SimpleBot has run actively (driving motors in a sequence) for over 4 hours before batteries were depleted, with wifi enabled.

Unfortunately we've found that rechargeable NiMH AA cells were not able to supply enough current to boot the Raspberry Pi, the initial power-on surge caused an execessive voltage drop. If you'd like to use rechargeable AAs, we suggest sourcing a 8x AA "12V" two-row battery pack, like a wider version of the 9V pack. This will fit in the space under the SimpleBot chassis, and gives enough capacity for rechargeable batteries.

It is also possible to use a 7.2V lithium cell as a battery for the SimpleBot.

OHC2015

2014-12-22T04:44:38Z

Angus Gratton: /* Assembly Project */

SimpleBot

2014-12-22T04:44:20Z

Angus Gratton:

SimpleBot is a [http://nodebots.io/ NodeBots] compatible robot platform designed by Andrew Fisher, controlled by a Raspberry Pi using a PiLeven Arduino compatible expansion board and a SimpleBot shield designed by Angus Gratton to simplify assembly. [https://github.com/ajfisher/simplebot More information on SimpleBot designs can be found on @ajfisher's github].

SimpleBot is designed to give you a quick win getting started with robotics, providing you with basic movement and sensor functionality that you can control from whatever software environment you like. You can then extend it with other sensors and actuators, or swap out parts to make the robot bigger or smaller, while building on the same basic principles and architecture. SimpleBot is the gateway drug to the world of robotics!

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|480px]]

SimpleBot features include:

* Simple assembly on a Coreflute chassis using cable ties and minimal tools
* Easy to modify to incorporate your own design ideas and features
* Chassis can be cut out by hand, or using a laser cutter if you have access to one
* Raspberry Pi brain
* WiFi connectivity
* PiLeven (Arduino compatible) I/O controller
* SimpleBot shield provides convenient connectors
* 2 x continuous-rotation servos for mobility
* 1 x ultrasonic distance sensor for obstacle avoidance
* 1 x light sensor for phototropic or photophobic behaviour
* 4 x WS2812 RGB LEDs for blinky fun
* Powered by common AA cells

More details available at [[SimpleBot Technical Overview]].

The first session at the [http://www.openhardwareconf.org/index.php/OHC2015 Open Hardware Miniconf 2015] will give participants the opportunity to assemble their own SimpleBot from a kit of parts, which includes all chassis parts pre-cut and ready to assemble:

[[File:SimpleBot-parts.jpg|480px]]

SimpleBot

2014-12-22T04:44:09Z

Angus Gratton:

SimpleBot is a [http://nodebots.io/ NodeBots] compatible robot platform designed by Andrew Fisher, controlled by a Raspberry Pi using a PiLeven Arduino compatible expansion board and a SimpleBot shield designed by Angus Gratton to simplify assembly. [https://github.com/ajfisher/simplebot More information on SimpleBot designs can be found on @ajfisher's github].

SimpleBot is designed to give you a quick win getting started with robotics, providing you with basic movement and sensor functionality that you can control from whatever software environment you like. You can then extend it with other sensors and actuators, or swap out parts to make the robot bigger or smaller, while building on the same basic principles and architecture. SimpleBot is the gateway drug to the world of robotics!

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|480px]]

SimpleBot features include:

* Simple assembly on a Coreflute chassis using cable ties and minimal tools
* Easy to modify to incorporate your own design ideas and features
* Chassis can be cut out by hand, or using a laser cutter if you have access to one
* Raspberry Pi brain
* WiFi connectivity
* PiLeven (Arduino compatible) I/O controller
* SimpleBot shield provides convenient connectors
* 2 x continuous-rotation servos for mobility
* 1 x ultrasonic distance sensor for obstacle avoidance
* 1 x light sensor for phototropic or photophobic behaviour
* 4 x WS2812 RGB LEDs for blinky fun
* Powered by common AA cells

More details available at [SimpleBot Technical Overview].

The first session at the [http://www.openhardwareconf.org/index.php/OHC2015 Open Hardware Miniconf 2015] will give participants the opportunity to assemble their own SimpleBot from a kit of parts, which includes all chassis parts pre-cut and ready to assemble:

[[File:SimpleBot-parts.jpg|480px]]

SimpleBot Technical Overview

2014-12-22T04:43:39Z

Angus Gratton: /* Power Source */

This page aims to give an overview of the technical architecture of the SimpleBot.

* For a brief summary of the SimpleBot, see the [[SimpleBot]] page instead.
* For a discussion of setting up SimpleBot's software, see the [[SimpleBot Initial Software Configuration]] page.

== Main Components ==

[[File:SimpleBot-oblique.jpg|400px]]

The SimpleBot has 3 main components, stacked up as follows:

* Raspberry Pi Model B+ runs Linux and can run any high-level programming language. Connects to Wifi via the attached adapter. Communicates with the PiLeven via serial.

* [http://freetronics.com/pileven Freetronics PiLeven] is an Arduino-compatible board that mounts on top of the Raspberry Pi. To use the PiLeven with the [http://nodebots.io NodeBots] [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five]] library or a similar high-level control library it is usually loaded with the [http://firmata.org/ Firmata] firmware.

* The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides an easy breakout for sensors connected to the PiLeven.

== History ==

The SimpleBot we are building is actually the "SimpleBot Pi", the fourth revision of the [http://github.com/ajfisher/simplebot SimpleBot designs] created by [http://twitter.com/ajfisher Andrew Fisher].

This evolution of SimpleBot has also had input from [http://twitter.com/projectgus Angus Gratton], who designed the PiLeven and SimpleBot shield, and other members of the [http://hackmelbourne.org Melbourne Hackerspace] - including Alec Clews (software setup), Andy Gelme, and of course Jon Oxer.

== Raspberry Pi ==

The Raspberry Pi is set up to run the node.js [https://github.com/rwaldron/johnny-five Johnny-Five Johnny Five library], which provides easy access to the hardware connected to the PiLeven (and abstracted via the Firmata framework).

Of course you don't have to use node.js or Johnny Five - you can program the PiLeven directly as if it was an Arduino Uno, or you can use any of the dozens of Firmata language bindings with your favourite programming language.

As the Arduino IDE can be a little unwieldy to use remotely on the Raspberry Pi, we have also installed a tool called [http://inotool.org/ inotool] that makes it simple to build and upload Arduino sketches from the command line. Check the inotool documentation for more details.

== PiLeven ==

[[File:PiLeven.jpg]]

The [http://freetronics.com/pileven PiLeven] is a 100% Arduino Uno compatible board in a Raspberry Pi form factor. It connects using the internal Raspberry Pi serial port, but can be programmed identically to an Arduino Uno connected via USB.

PiLeven also incorporates a high-efficiency DC/DC buck converter which allows the Pi to be powered from voltage sources higher than 5V, such as the 9V battery pack on the SimpleBot.

For more information on PiLeven, see the [http://www.freetronics.com.au/pages/pileven-getting-started-guide PiLeven Getting Started Guide] and also the [https://github.com/freetronics/PiLeven/wiki/Direct-Control-with-Firmata wiki article on using PiLeven with Firmata]. Note that the Raspberry Pi software for PiLeven is already installed on the image we supply at the MiniConf.

== SimpleBot Shield ==

[[File:SimpleBot shield mounted.jpg|400px]]

The [http://github.com/freetronics/simplebot_shield SimpleBot Shield] provides easy connections for the following hardware:

* 2 marked "motor" hobby servos connected to pins D9 & D10.
* 4 additional hobby servo pinouts, pins D2,D3,D5,D6.
* Dedicated 6V linear regulator for servos (hobby servos usually run better on 6V than 5V).
* Ultrasonic Rangefinder Sensor connected to pin D8.
* LDR connected as voltage divider to pin A0, provides voltage indication of ambient light level. Can be bent directionally to provide a directional light sensor.
* 4 WS2812B RGB LEDs, aka "NeoPixels". Data pin is pin D6, LEDs are daisy chained from there. Can be used for ambient effects, feedback, or as signals which are received via the light sensor.
* 5 Analog input pins (also usable as digital) broken out on screw terminals, along with power and ground.
* Breakout for [http://freetronics.com/imu9]Freetronics IMU9 module] (not supplied).
* "Serial" 4 pin breakout for connecting other devices.

== Power Source ==

[[File:SimpleBot batteries in pack.jpg|100px]]

The standard power source for the SimpleBot is 6x AA alkaline cells for a nominal 9V battery pack. In testing a SimpleBot has run actively (driving motors in a sequence) for over 4 hours before batteries were depleted, with wifi enabled.

Unfortunately we've found that rechargeable NiMH AA cells were not able to supply enough current to boot the Raspberry Pi, the initial power-on surge caused an execessive voltage drop. If you'd like to use rechargeable AAs, we suggest sourcing a 8x AA "12V" two-row battery pack, like a wider version of the 9V pack. This will fit in the space under the SimpleBot chassis, and gives enough capacity for rechargeable batteries.

It is also possible to use a 7.2V lithium cell as a battery for the SimpleBot.