SimpleBot Shield Assembly - Revision history

Angus Gratton: /* Wire AREF to 5V */

2015-01-12T23:05:45Z

Wire AREF to 5V

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:05, 12 January 2015
Line 95:		Line 95:
	To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.		To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.

	[[File:SimpleBot AREF Fix.~~png~~\|400px]]		[[File:SimpleBot AREF Fix.jpg\|400px]]

	Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:		Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:

	[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.~~png~~\|400px]]		[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.jpg\|400px]]

	[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.~~png~~\|400px]]		[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.jpg\|400px]]

	== Reset Button & Resistor ==		== Reset Button & Resistor ==

Angus Gratton: /* Wire AREF to 5V */

2015-01-12T23:04:11Z

Wire AREF to 5V

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:04, 12 January 2015
Line 95:		Line 95:
	To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.		To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.

	[File:SimpleBot AREF Fix.png\|400px]		[[File:SimpleBot AREF Fix.png\|400px]]

	Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:		Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:

	[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.png\|400px]		[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.png\|400px]]

	[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.png\|400px]		[[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.png\|400px]]

	== Reset Button & Resistor ==		== Reset Button & Resistor ==

Angus Gratton: /* Wire AREF to 5V */

2015-01-12T23:03:34Z

Wire AREF to 5V

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:03, 12 January 2015
Line 95:		Line 95:
	To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.		To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.

	[File: SimpleBot AREF Fix.png]		[File:SimpleBot AREF Fix.png\|400px]

	Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:		Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:

	[File: SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.png]		[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.png\|400px]

	[File: SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.png]		[File:SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.png\|400px]

	== Reset Button & Resistor ==		== Reset Button & Resistor ==

Angus Gratton: /* Wire AREF to 5V */

2015-01-12T23:02:41Z

Wire AREF to 5V

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:02, 12 January 2015
Line 93:		Line 93:
	There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design: the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".		There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design: the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

	To fix this problem, solder a ~~"blue wire"~~ fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.		To fix this problem, solder a quick fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield. You can use the wire wrap wire in the kit, or the cut off leg of a resistor or another component.

	~~You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield~~.		[File: SimpleBot AREF Fix.png]

	~~The closest connection is from~~ "AREF" on the ~~LDR~~ to ~~"5V"~~ on the ~~Ultrasonic sensor header.~~		Once you've done this, cut off the "AREF" pin on the shield to disconnect from AREF on the PiLeven:

	~~''(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry~~.~~)''~~		[File: SimpleBot AREF Pin Cutoff.png]

			[File: SimpleBot AREF Pin Cut 2.png]

	== Reset Button & Resistor ==		== Reset Button & Resistor ==

Jonathan Oxer: /* All Done */

2015-01-10T06:59:40Z

All Done

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:59, 10 January 2015
Line 124:		Line 124:

	Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].		Next step, you can move on to [[SimpleBot Chassis Assembly]].


			[[SimpleBot-Assembly\|Back to SimpleBot Assembly Overview]]

Jonathan Oxer: /* SimpleBot Shield Assembly */

2015-01-01T13:07:55Z

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:07, 1 January 2015
Line 3:		Line 3:
	The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components to be soldered on. The parts you need are:		The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components to be soldered on. The parts you need are:

	[[File:SimpleBot ~~Shield~~ parts.jpg\|800px]]		[[File:SimpleBot-shield-parts.jpg\|800px]]

	* SimpleBot Shield with WS2812B RGB LEDs and capacitors pre-fitted.		* SimpleBot Shield with WS2812B RGB LEDs and capacitors pre-fitted.

Jonathan Oxer: /* Reset Button & Resistor */

2015-01-01T13:03:18Z

Reset Button & Resistor

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:03, 1 January 2015
Line 107:		Line 107:
	Bend the leads of the resistor so that it slips neatly into the holes on the PCB:		Bend the leads of the resistor so that it slips neatly into the holes on the PCB:

	[[File:SimpleBot-resistor-bent.jpg\|~~340px~~]]		[[File:SimpleBot-resistor-bent.jpg\|240px]]

	The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.		The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

Jonathan Oxer: /* Reset Button & Resistor */

2015-01-01T13:01:11Z

Reset Button & Resistor

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:01, 1 January 2015
Line 103:		Line 103:
	== Reset Button & Resistor ==		== Reset Button & Resistor ==

	The ~~last step is to solder on the reset button, and the~~ resistor ~~that~~ forms a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.		The 10k resistor forms a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider voltage divider] with the LDR in order to output a voltage proportional to the ambient light level.

			Bend the leads of the resistor so that it slips neatly into the holes on the PCB:

			[[File:SimpleBot-resistor-bent.jpg\|340px]]

	The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.		The resistor and the reset button can be soldered from the top or the bottom, as you prefer. If soldering the reset button from the top, take care not to melt the plastic body of the button.

Jonathan Oxer: /* SimpleBot Shield Assembly */

2014-12-30T12:51:39Z

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:51, 30 December 2014
Line 5:		Line 5:
	[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg\|800px]]		[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg\|800px]]

	* SimpleBot Shield with WS2812B RGB LEDs and capacitors pre-fitted		* SimpleBot Shield with WS2812B RGB LEDs and capacitors pre-fitted.
	* 5x Screw terminal ~~headers~~		* 5x Screw terminal header blocks (mounted as one 4-way terminal and one 6-way terminal).
	* Pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.		* Pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
	* 4-pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor.		* 4-pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor.

Jonathan Oxer: /* SimpleBot Shield Assembly */

2014-12-30T12:30:08Z

SimpleBot Shield Assembly

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:30, 30 December 2014
Line 1:		Line 1:
	= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =		= SimpleBot Shield Assembly =

	The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components ~~that need~~ to be soldered on:		The SimpleBot shield has a small number of through-hole components to be soldered on. The parts you need are:

	[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg\|800px]]		[[File:SimpleBot Shield parts.jpg\|800px]]

			* SimpleBot Shield with WS2812B RGB LEDs and capacitors pre-fitted
	* 5x Screw terminal headers		* 5x Screw terminal headers
	* ~~Male pin~~ headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.		* Pin headers for Arduino shield mounting and hobby servo "motor" connections.
	* 4 pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor ~~(hacked up piece of a longer header shown, but the actual parts should be made to size)~~.		* 4-pin female header for Ultrasonic Range Sensor.
	* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.		* 2x Electrolytic capacitors for the VIN & 6V power rails.
	* LDR & resistor for ambient light sensing.		* LDR (light dependent resistor) and fixed resistor for ambient light sensing.
	* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).		* 6V linear regulator for servo power supply (most hobby servos run much better at 6V than at 5V).

	== Soldering Arduino Headers ==		== Soldering Arduino Headers ==

	To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig". Start by mounting the PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:		To solder the Arduino headers, it's easiest to use an Arduino-compatible board as a "jig" to keep the headers straight while they are being soldered. Start by mounting the PiLeven on top of the Raspberry Pi, as shown:

	[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:PiLeven on Pi.jpg\|400px]]
Line 24:		Line 25:
	* 1x 6-pin header		* 1x 6-pin header

	Place them into the PiLeven as shown:		Place them into the PiLeven headers as shown:

	[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:PiLeven with headers.jpg\|400px]]

	~~Mount~~ the SimpleBot Shield on ~~top of~~ the ~~headers~~:		Slip the SimpleBot Shield onto the headers so it sits in place on the PiLeven:

	[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:PiLeven with SimpleBot shield in place.jpg\|400px]]
Line 36:		Line 37:
	[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:PiLeven Arduino headers soldered.jpg\|400px]]

	After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven.		After you've soldered the headers, remove the SimpleBot shield from the PiLeven. The headers should all be straight.

	== Screw Terminals ==		== Screw Terminals ==
Line 50:		Line 51:
	[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals on top of shield.jpg\|400px]]

	Then use some Blu-Tac to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins on the bottom.		Then use some Blu-Tac or your finger to hold them down so you can flip the shield over and solder the pins from the bottom:

	[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:SimpleBot screw terminals soldered.jpg\|400px]]

	== Regulator & Capacitors ==		== Voltage Regulator & Capacitors ==

	Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.		Next step is to solder the 6V regulator and the electrolytic capacitors.
Line 60:		Line 61:
	[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors placed.jpg\|400px]]

	All of these components need to be oriented correctly. Place the regulator as shown.		All of these components need to be oriented correctly, and can be damaged if you fit them backwards. Place the regulator as shown, with the large metal tab facing towards the screw terminals.

	Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.		Electrolytic capacitors have a grey stripe on the side marked "-", which is the '''negative''' side. The circuit board has a small plus marked next to the pin for the '''positive''' side. Both the positive sides face towards the regulator, as shown, so the capacitors are "mirrored" in orientation to each other.
Line 68:		Line 69:
	[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors bottom.jpg\|400px]]

	After they are soldered you can cut the leads off:		After they are soldered you can cut the leads off. Make sure you hold the lead while you cut it, so that it doesn't shoot off like a tiny metal javelin straight into your eye:

	[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:SimpleBot regulator and capacitors trimmed.jpg\|400px]]
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	== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==		== LDR, Range Sensor Header, Servo Headers ==

	Next step is the LDR (~~Light Dependent Resistor~~), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not ~~actual~~ motors).		Next step is the LDR (light dependent resistor), the 4-pin female header for the Ultrasonic Range Sensor, and the two 3-pin male headers for the "Motors" (actually continuous rotation hobby servos, not normal motors).

	For the 3 pin headers, cut them from ~~the~~ longer male header strips.		For the 3 pin headers, cut them from longer male header strips if they haven't been pre-cut.

	Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.		Place the parts into the PCB as shown. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts.
Line 84:		Line 85:
	It's recommended you leave LDR sitting high above the PCB surface, as shown, so you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor.		It's recommended you leave LDR sitting high above the PCB surface, as shown, so you can bend it forwards 90 degrees to create a directional light sensor.

	The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-Tac to hold items in place when flipping the board.		The LDR can be soldered from the top or the bottom, but the header needs to be soldered from the bottom. Use Blu-Tac or your finger to hold items in place when flipping the board.

	[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg\|400px]]		[[File:SimpleBot LDR and range header soldered.jpg\|400px]]
Line 90:		Line 91:
	== Wire AREF to 5V ==		== Wire AREF to 5V ==

	There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design, the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".		There's a flaw in the current SimpleBot Shield design: the LDR is connected to the "AREF" pin on the shield when it should be connected directly to "5V".

	To fix this problem, solder a "blue wire" fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.		To fix this problem, solder a "blue wire" fix from the AREF pin on the shield to either the "5V" pin or the "IORef" pin on the shield.
Line 96:		Line 97:
	You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield.		You can use the tops of the male pin headers, or you can solder to the leg of the LDR and any other pin on the shield.

	The closest ~~conection~~ is from "AREF" on the LDR to "5V" on the Ultrasonic sensor header.		The closest connection is from "AREF" on the LDR to "5V" on the Ultrasonic sensor header.

	''(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry.)''		''(Photos for this step are not yet available, sorry.)''