Surface Mount Assembly for SimpleBot Shield - Revision history

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

2014-12-27T07:37:37Z

ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:37, 27 December 2014
Line 39:		Line 39:
	== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==		== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

	Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue - and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these ~~(there's a microscope photo under the next heading)~~.		Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue - and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these.

	The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.		The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

Angus Gratton: /* Tacking Down */

2014-12-27T07:35:00Z

Tacking Down

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:35, 27 December 2014
Line 80:		Line 80:

	If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!		If either component is soldered a bit crooked, repeat the process (tweezers in one hand, iron in the other) to reflow the solder and move the component into position. It's important you do this now before you try and solder the other pads!

	'''When soldering the LED take special care not to apply too much heat - the green element of the WS2812B is quite heat sensitive and can be damaged if too much heat flows into the LED. You want to remove the soldering iron shortly after the solder becomes molten.'''

	== Soldering all pads ==		== Soldering all pads ==

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

2014-12-27T07:34:33Z

ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:34, 27 December 2014
Line 45:		Line 45:
	Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:		Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

	* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 1" pad as this is closest to the green element.		* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 1" pad as this is closest to the green element. This means removing your soldering iron shortly after the solder flows into the joint.
	* Turn your soldering iron temperature down, 260C should be plenty.		* Turn your soldering iron temperature down, 260C should be plenty.
	* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).		* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

2014-12-27T07:33:53Z

ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:33, 27 December 2014
Line 45:		Line 45:
	Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:		Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

	* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 3" pad ~~(with the triangle)~~ as this is closest to the green element.		* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 1" pad as this is closest to the green element.
	* Turn your soldering iron down, 260C should be plenty.		* Turn your soldering iron temperature down, 260C should be plenty.
	* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).		* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

2014-12-27T07:31:31Z

ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:31, 27 December 2014
Line 45:		Line 45:
	Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:		Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

	* Apply as little heat as possible to each ~~pAd~~, especially the "number 3" pad (with the triangle) as this is closest to the green element.		* Apply as little heat as possible to each pad, especially the "number 3" pad (with the triangle) as this is closest to the green element.
	* Turn your soldering iron down, 260C should be plenty.		* Turn your soldering iron down, 260C should be plenty.
	* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).		* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

Angus Gratton: /* ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature */

2014-12-27T07:31:17Z

ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:31, 27 December 2014
Line 39:		Line 39:
	== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==		== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

	Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these (there's a microscope photo ~~further down~~ the ~~page~~).		Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue - and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these (there's a microscope photo under the next heading).

	The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.		The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

Angus Gratton: /* IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation */

2014-12-27T07:30:51Z

IMPORTANT - WS2812B Orientation

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:30, 27 December 2014
Line 36:		Line 36:

	So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.		So when placing the WS2812Bs, make sure that '''the corner with the triangle marking is diagonally opposite to the pin 1 marking on the board'''.

			== ALSO IMPORTANT - WS2812B Soldering Temperature ==

			Inside each WS2812B (under the clear cover) are three LED elements - red, green, blue and the tiny controller chip. If you look at the LED under a microscope you can see all of these (there's a microscope photo further down the page).

			The green LED element is prone to lose its bonding wire to the controller if the LED is heated too much during soldering. The result of this is a red-blue LED instead of red-green-blue.

			Some tips for soldering WS2812Bs:

			* Apply as little heat as possible to each pAd, especially the "number 3" pad (with the triangle) as this is closest to the green element.
			* Turn your soldering iron down, 260C should be plenty.
			* Use flux from the flux pen on the connections before soldering, so they solder more easily (requiring less heat).

	== Sequence ==		== Sequence ==

Angus Gratton: /* Soldering all pads */

2014-12-22T04:59:02Z

Soldering all pads

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:59, 22 December 2014
Line 77:		Line 77:
	Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.		Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

	When soldering the LED, ~~mosto f~~ the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the pad ~~on the PCB~~ as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.		When soldering the LED, most of the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the PCB pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

	Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.		Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.

Angus Gratton: /* Soldering all pads */

2014-12-22T04:58:43Z

Soldering all pads

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:58, 22 December 2014
Line 75:		Line 75:
	Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.		Now the LED and the capacitor are held firmly in place, we can solder the other pads. This is now a similar technique to through hole soldering, just using a much smaller amount of solder.

	Hold the soldering iron in one hand and ~~plain~~ in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.		Hold the soldering iron in one hand and some solder in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

	When soldering the LED, mosto f the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the pad on the PCB as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.		When soldering the LED, mosto f the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the pad on the PCB as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

Angus Gratton: /* Soldering all pads */

2014-12-22T01:39:31Z

Soldering all pads

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:39, 22 December 2014
Line 77:		Line 77:
	Hold the soldering iron in one hand and plain in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.		Hold the soldering iron in one hand and plain in the other. Go to each unsoldered pad and heat the joint with the iron, then press a small amount of solder into the joint to solder it.

	When soldering the LED, the pad is not ~~particularly~~ exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the pad as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.		When soldering the LED, mosto f the pad is not exposed so some heat needs can be applied via the leg of the LED itself. Try to heat the pad on the PCB as much as possible, though - go in at a low angle.

	Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.		Once the remaining pads are soldered, you may want to revisit the first "tacked" pads and apply a tiny bit more solder so they are more firmly attached.